CBRWorld.net

I did the entire thing with simple hand tools...and I think at one point I had both hands, and feet on the bike holding things in place while I moved around trying to get things positioned and bolted in right.

Hi guys,

Just purchased a 99 F4 with an engine rattle that apears once the bike is fully warmed up between 3k-7k rpm

I replaced the CCTL with OEM (2 blue dots) but the rattle came back slowly once the bike WARMS UP (runing temp, fan start @ lights).

I opened it up again and did the MOD mentioned on this post but still no fix. The sound is way too loud for it to be just the tip of the CCTL, to me it really sounds like the caim but as I 've rade it has to be the CCTL.

The shaft is already showing marking on the new part (RJ23). its half way down as shown on step 6 of tutorial, after only a couple of days of riding.

I've rade a number of posts by ppl with cctl problems, they all seem to get the rattle when the bike is cold and goes away once warmed up but my 99 F4 starts rattle as the bike wams up and gets loud.

can anyone help?

What happens to a CTTL when it does bad?
can alot of vibration from the chain kill a CCTL in just a few rides?
Can an overheating engine cause the chain/cct to rattle?
where else could the noise be coming from?

sry for the long summery but this noise is driving me mad, to the point that i dont ride the bike anymore.

Plz help!!!

 

---

Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

But the noise is gone when the bike is cold?  it only starts rattling when it's warm/hot.  That's not the  normal rattle, which is common in the F4i

Jeff

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

How are your valve clearances ? I know my bike starts chattering away when it warms up a bit. More of a ticking noise though than the sound of a can of ball bearings thrown down the side of the fairing like the CCTL is supposed to sound like.

It really REALLY bothers me. Its so annoying. it always used to annoy me in my old ford ute too when the hydraulic lifters started losing their pressure and the engine would rattle.

At least thats what i THINK it is... we will see. I should hopefully get my bike back with new fairings on it tomorrow. And while it was there the dealer did my valve clearances for me for nothing. Awefully nice of them, but small consolation for them taking 2½ months to fix a few scratches under insurance (alright, maybe a bit more than a few).

I'm really hoping that noise is gone. I'll let you know.

---

-'99 CBR600F
-SS Brake lines
-Polished Rims
-Standard Shiny Micron Exhaust to match shiny wheels

droid_khan:

I opened it up again and did the MOD mentioned on this post but still no fix. The sound is way too loud for it to be just the tip of the CCTL, to me it really sounds like the caim but as I 've rade it has to be the CCTL.

... which would in fact make it the cam that is making the noise yes. :P

please correct me if im wrong.

---

-'99 CBR600F
-SS Brake lines
-Polished Rims
-Standard Shiny Micron Exhaust to match shiny wheels

I don't know what's wrong with Khan's bike.  he states that it's great when cold, but as soon as it warms up, it's noisy.  The common rattle sound which is present on the F4i, is there whether the engine is hot or cold.  It doesn't get worse or better depending on engine temp.  Everyone always blames the CCTL as soon as they have engine noise.  As far as the cam chain being NFG...I haven't heard the bike running,  to determine that.   besides, I'd want to look at the chain to be sure.( I mean take it out of the engine, check for tight spots., etc.)  Besides, if the chain was stretched, and for whatever reason the CCTL went bad...The phasing of the cams would be out.  And you'd know it.  The cams would be retarding, making the power delivery at the bottom lacking, while the mid to top end would be great.  But don't comfuse this, with his bog.  That's a seperate issue.  Usually when a cam chain fails, it breaks.  If it stretches, the OEM CCTL will take up the slack. If you have an APE tensioner, you will have to adjust it.

After the mod didn't work, I'd have already pulled the valve cover, and the clutch cover to take a look.  I'm not sure if Khan knows the history of the bike or not, but he said it has 40,000k on it (if I remember correctly).   The 40,000k wouldn't bother me, it's a Honda....LOL.  I don't even know if the noise just started, or if it was there when he purchased it.  I'd be leary of the previous owner,. if it was there when purchased.

Jeff

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

when doing this mod do i have to take the shaft apart from the cctl to hammer the dowel or i can leave the shaft and cctl together and just hammer the dowl?

 

also i still dont understand how to replace the cctl. in my manual is say frist to remove the cct sealing bolt and washer. then turn the tensioner shaft fully in (clockwise) and secure it using the stopper tool to prevent damaging the cam chain.

 is that the correct way or do i just undo the two bolts holding the cctl and put in the new cctl and bolt everything back?

 

thanks

---

www.JSJBROTHERS.com

I've ordered an APE manual, lets see how things go after that. If still noisy then it has to be something else until then im hoping its the tensioner and not the chain, cam or valves. The reason why i think its tensioner is because with the old tensioner that came with the bike when i purchased it the noise is alot louder, with the new its not that bad but still noisy.

Metals expand when hot, so the chain could stretch more when hot and the tensioner's spring is not strong enough to take up the slack.

khan

 

---

Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

Those of you messing around with the spring, are you worried that you're work hardening the material, and making it prone to premature failure?

I've heard that the spring does break in these things; that the "engine harmonics" and vibes on different frequencies will contribute to the materials' failure over time, so by hardening it, you're not helping(unless you guys are re-heat treating the springs??).

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the safest way to re-use the tensioner is to replace the spring, and tighten the pin for the tip.

Now to figure out how to do that on my VFR... it has two!!

---

01 F4i
custom paint* Hindle race slip-on*PC3usb*Memphis Shades screen*Corbin*short stalks*Vortex triple*Fender Elim.*tag on swingarm*polished hdw,wheel lips,chainguard,gas cap,brake res. cap*blue preload adjusters, bar ends*K+N*Clear Alternatives LED integrated taillight*blue valve stem caps*Galfer SS Front lines*-1 tooth*Blue Shorty Pazzo Racing levers*Soon to come: Full 2005 600RR suspension, big brakes, more paint, custom seat cowl
05 Honda VFR800
83 VF750F stock
85 VF700F *K+N w/jet kit*F1 cobra slip-ons

droid_khan:

I've rade a number of posts by ppl with cctl problems, they all seem to get the rattle when the bike is cold and goes away once warmed up but my 99 F4 starts rattle as the bike wams up and gets loud.

 

I have a 2000 F4 and my bike is making a clicking sound when it is warmed up at idle rpm...when i rev it up higher it either goes away or I can't hear it b/c of the noise...it is pretty loud...I JUST changed the CCTL a couple days ago b/c I thought that was the problem (although I didn't widen the hole as suggested in this thread).  Droid_khan, I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you finally figured out what the problem was b/c my circumstances are very similar to yours...ANY help from ANYONE w/ suggestions would be greatly appriciated...:-( my bike is parked now until i figure out whats wrong b/c I don't wanna hurt it.

Also, if it is the CCTL like most of the ppl in the thread experianced, if i just leave it as is, is it actually hurting the bike not to do the mod or is it just more to make the tick/rattle stop b/c its annoying?

Thanks guys

Don't overlook valve adjustment as a source for noise, especially when it changes by rpm or temperature. Many times, bad valve adjustment will create harmonic type vibrations at higher rpm as well but nothing below 4,000 rpm. People frequently look to the CCT for that kind of stuff but are disapointed when it doesn't solve anything.

---

01 Aprilia Falco SL 1000 - Ohlins, Derestricted, SL Carbon, Chip'd, 520 Conv. Flies!!!

94 CBR 600 F2,F3 Engine,F4i Guages/Body/Tank/RamAir,Short Shift Kit,14/43 Sprockets,DynoJet Stg 1,K&N, Yoshimura RS3, V&H PowerPack, 520 conv,Sliders, O2 Sensor - and Sold it! more ...

hey sorry to dig up an old thread, but i did this mod and let me tell you what a difference. thanx for the ingenuity !!! went from sounding like a fairing buzz to a smooth rpm band . thx again!

Would anyone have the part number for the j23 CCTL?

emasehtebyhw:

hey sorry to dig up an old thread, but i did this mod and let me tell you what a difference. thanx for the ingenuity !!! went from sounding like a fairing buzz to a smooth rpm band . thx again!

Come-on!.......It couldn't have worked......Khan said it was stupid idea, since it didn't work on his bike.......How did it work on yours..

LOL...........Enjoy the quietness emasehtebyhw

Jeff

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

Uncle Jeff,

Do you think you could email me at mnpottier@msn.com so I can ask you some more questions about this rattle problem?

Thanks.

Mark