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nope, the bike is 9 hours away.  It will probably be the first of the year before i get it back in my posession.

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'99 CBR 600 F4 Silver, Carbon Fiber Grips, Levers, Mirrors, Stainless Steel Muzzy Slip-on, 520 Stealth sprocket set 15/47, Factory Pro Stage 1 TI jet kit, Reverse Indiglo Guages, Goodridge SS Brake lines, Custom Carbon Fiber Seat, rear turnsignal eliminator, rear brake LED Bulbs, F4i Rear Shock

'87 Yamaha XV1100 Virago Black/Red Fireball, Mac slash-cut pipes, custum air filter, clear turn len's, Lots of Chrome

Well I rode it just under 500 miles to get it back home but wont be able to tear into it for a few days.  I'm almost positive it is the wax unit or a bad sync.  It acts as if it is choking out when it shouldnt be.  How exactly does the Wax thing work?

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'99 CBR 600 F4 Silver, Carbon Fiber Grips, Levers, Mirrors, Stainless Steel Muzzy Slip-on, 520 Stealth sprocket set 15/47, Factory Pro Stage 1 TI jet kit, Reverse Indiglo Guages, Goodridge SS Brake lines, Custom Carbon Fiber Seat, rear turnsignal eliminator, rear brake LED Bulbs, F4i Rear Shock

'87 Yamaha XV1100 Virago Black/Red Fireball, Mac slash-cut pipes, custum air filter, clear turn len's, Lots of Chrome

Uncle Jeff:

JonLD:

no never found the problem.  My brother took it with him to Alabama when he moved and hasnt been able to figure it out.  Im in the process of buying it from him right now, so as soon as I get it back I'll continue working on it.  On a side note he's replaced everything electrical from sensors to the computer and it still does it.  I believe it is something to do with the wax thing on the cold circuit.  I cant remember the correct name right now.

The wax unit is controlled by the temp of the coolant.There's air bleeds in the top of the throttlebodies, and as the cooland warms up the wax unit, there's less air moving through the bleeds.  This is also how you set up/sync the throttle bodies, so maybe When they were sync'd, might have something to do with it.  Engine load is engine load regardless of what the engine temp is, so map sensor shouldn't be the problem.

Jeff

Just as I stated above.  I'm not sure if the coolant lines have to be routed a certain way or not..........or maybe the wax unit is NFG.

Jeff

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My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

I re'read your previous post.  Thats kinda what I was thinking.  I will have to make sure he didn't bypass the TB like I did the carbs on my F4.  It worked ok on it but I can see that would be a prob on these.  Thanks for the info Jeff, I'll let you know what I find.

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'99 CBR 600 F4 Silver, Carbon Fiber Grips, Levers, Mirrors, Stainless Steel Muzzy Slip-on, 520 Stealth sprocket set 15/47, Factory Pro Stage 1 TI jet kit, Reverse Indiglo Guages, Goodridge SS Brake lines, Custom Carbon Fiber Seat, rear turnsignal eliminator, rear brake LED Bulbs, F4i Rear Shock

'87 Yamaha XV1100 Virago Black/Red Fireball, Mac slash-cut pipes, custum air filter, clear turn len's, Lots of Chrome

Well I tightened all the intake boot clamps as they were all looser than I like(one was actually off so might have been sucking air, not sure).  Checked the injector seals and o-rings and cleaned everything.  Still wouldnt auto cold start.  I noticed the nut on top of the wax unit(the don't touch one) and thought hm.  While holding the throttle to keep it running I adjusted it and got it to run on its own but it was racing then.  I then adjusted the idle some and adjusted the nut some more.  It finally was operating temp so I adjusted it to where it seemed good and set the idle.  Then I sync'ed the starter valves which were off quite a bit but I got them spot on now.  Now I just have to wait for the bike to get cold again so I can see if it will cold start or not.  If not then I guess I need to look into a replacement wax unit as that is apparently the issue.  I do wonder what the specs are that the factory sets the lock nut on the wax unit too.

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'99 CBR 600 F4 Silver, Carbon Fiber Grips, Levers, Mirrors, Stainless Steel Muzzy Slip-on, 520 Stealth sprocket set 15/47, Factory Pro Stage 1 TI jet kit, Reverse Indiglo Guages, Goodridge SS Brake lines, Custom Carbon Fiber Seat, rear turnsignal eliminator, rear brake LED Bulbs, F4i Rear Shock

'87 Yamaha XV1100 Virago Black/Red Fireball, Mac slash-cut pipes, custum air filter, clear turn len's, Lots of Chrome

Well Jeff,  It looks like it is probably valves.  I wont know till i get them fixed for sure but so far ive checked just the #1 and #3 int and there is one valve on each that is to tight to get any feeler gauge through and the other one is alot tighter than spec.  I think the PO before my bro might have put a different set of gauges on it to mask it real mileage.  I've never heard of any f4i being that bad at only 16k.

All the Intake valves are way out of spec. They are all so tight there open when there not supposed to be or real close to it.  The exhaust are all spot on.  I'm thinking the factory just royally screwed up in building this engine.  What do you guys think?

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'99 CBR 600 F4 Silver, Carbon Fiber Grips, Levers, Mirrors, Stainless Steel Muzzy Slip-on, 520 Stealth sprocket set 15/47, Factory Pro Stage 1 TI jet kit, Reverse Indiglo Guages, Goodridge SS Brake lines, Custom Carbon Fiber Seat, rear turnsignal eliminator, rear brake LED Bulbs, F4i Rear Shock

'87 Yamaha XV1100 Virago Black/Red Fireball, Mac slash-cut pipes, custum air filter, clear turn len's, Lots of Chrome

Bump: Refer to first post.

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'99 CBR 600 F4 Silver, Carbon Fiber Grips, Levers, Mirrors, Stainless Steel Muzzy Slip-on, 520 Stealth sprocket set 15/47, Factory Pro Stage 1 TI jet kit, Reverse Indiglo Guages, Goodridge SS Brake lines, Custom Carbon Fiber Seat, rear turnsignal eliminator, rear brake LED Bulbs, F4i Rear Shock

'87 Yamaha XV1100 Virago Black/Red Fireball, Mac slash-cut pipes, custum air filter, clear turn len's, Lots of Chrome