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Thx John and Tahoe.  I am mechanically inclined, I just am new to bikes all around. Havent done anything other than change tires and oil so far.  I am sure there are many things to learn different from the v8 machines I  work on.

Tahoe SC:

valve chatter you can hear at idle and all the way through. the cctl seems more prevalent when the engine is on load...so revving with clutch in and in neutral doesn't always make the sound.

valve chatter can be heard from the same area as the cctl but you'll hear it on the otherside of the bike.

i've ridden an f4i with a very loud cctl...while it never skipped a tooth or anything...ever...he got it changed out anyway...it was so bad that it felt as if the whole tank was vibrating.

just remember that before you go and bust out with the manual tensioner...read up on the causes of it and then determine for yourself what step you want to take next. as far as jdub's tutorial...it's awesome...but mang...it's so crowded down there. just take your time and lots of breaks.

 

Tahoe SC,

Thanks for your input again.  So, it sounds as if you are suggesting in a mild manner to replace the tensioner with an OEM hydraulic unit?  I would like to hear your thoughts/opinions on this as I am unfamiliar with this and currently on "the fence" with which one to replace it with......

 

Thanks again,

-John

 

 

no mang...it's totally up to you which one to use.

i've had the j22 in my bike at first purchase...it wasn't super loud or anything, changed out at 22K cause the shop said they'd do it under honda's warranty, not the 1-year warranty. after that, the j23 made some noise but nowhere as loud as any of the other F4i's i've heard with it busted. i switched that one out for another since i got one for cheap...intially, they were all very quiet, but after awhile, i had some noise, but not ever was it bad enough that it's all i heard, like the ones that i've heard. just lucky i guess.

anyway...if you go APE, just be careful about tightening it and check to make sure it doesn't back out. if you go stock, just throw it in and wait for it to make sounds again...then switch it out if you like.

some think it's the stock cctl 'failing'...so the sound is from the cam chain slapping around. others think that it's the tip and shaft of the stock cctl vibrating back and forth, as with time and wear, i can see how the tolerance for the pin and shaft become greater. this thought is backed by people who do the cctl mod and find that the noise is gone.

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Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

Thanks Tahoe SC.  I guess I am going to replace the my cctl with a new OEM unit just to see if the noise goes away and then if the noise comes back miles down the road then decide if I want to goe with a aftermarket manual adjuster. This seems to be the best choice for me as I really just want to know if this remedies the noise that I am experiencing.....

 

Since we are talinkg about stock cctl's, does anyone know what the tourque spec is on the two 5mm mounting bolts?  Also, how is a person supposed to deal with the pin that is in the OEM replacement cctl?  I'm assuming I mount the new OEM cctl and then remove the pin and then install the phillips headed bolt from the old cctl into the new one...??

 

Again, much thanks,

-John

Just got done installing a new OEM cctl and I have great news to report..... the rattling noise coming from the engine is gone!!  The tools are all put away and now it's time for bed, 4:30 am is going to come real quickly for me.... :(

 

Thanks to all on this thread for the help, I do appreciate it.

 

-John

john,

this is late, but yea you just remove that 'pin' and slip the bolt back on. you should have a new washer there but i just reused the old one without any problems.

don't throw away the old cctl! take a look at the very tip of it...you'll notice that it's held on by a little pin just below it. notice how the tip rattles? well, if you flatten or spread out that pin using a punch or something of the like, it will no longer move. i think that over time, that area wears out and so does the whole shaft so you get lots of moving around.

as far as torque specs...you should download a manual from www. stephygee.com

t

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Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

Sounds good Tahoe SC. Thanks again as it is so nice to ride this bike with a "quiet" engine!!

 

-John

where can i buy a CCT ??? ebay doesnt have it .. no one..

for the stock one, go to www.ronayers.com or www.partsfish.com or some others.

for APE, go ebay

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Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

How often do you have to tightin this APE cct? Thanks.

how do you determine tdc, i saw that someone said line up the tick marks, what are tick marks and how do i go about lining them up?

take a look at the manual...it shows on there...

as far as all that other stuff...i really don't see the need for it...i'm not sure if nate or uncle buck did it either. i think some others don't line it up as well. the dealer just removed and replaced when they did mine the first time.

 

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Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

I didnt bring mine to TDC before I swapped out the CCTL.  Many thousand sof miles later it still runs fine.

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2000 Honda CBR F4
2005 Suzuki DRZ-400SM
1994 Kawasaki Ninja 250 (gf's bike)

Hippie: "You can't *own* property, man."

Professor Farnsworth: "I can, but that's because I'm not a penniless hippie."

i'm thinking at TDC, the cam chain is maybe at lowest tension?!??!?

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Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

I ordered the cct from APE on Monday 10th of July and I paid for 2day Shipping. Has anyone else had a problem with shipping with them? And now I cant get ahold of them because they are moving. Any input would be great! Thanks ;)