Disclaimer: I will not be responsible for any damage you may cause to yourself or to your bike, so dont blame me if you screw up. OK, the first thing you want to do is make sure you have everything needed to build your new fender eliminator. Here is a suggested list of what I used: -22ga Weld Steel (about $6.00 from Lowe's) -Drill and drill bits (metal-cutting bits work best) -Ruler or Tape measure -Marker -Your Honda Tool Kit -Dremel -Jigsaw with "Thin Metal" cutting blade Once you have all these items you are ready to begin!
Here is a picture of the label that came on the steel I bought. This is just to help you out with metal choice. Now is a good time to remove the label and thoroughly sand the surface of the metal. The metal has a protective coating which will not allow paint to stick to it very well at all. Also if you do not paint, be assured it will rust badly. I used an orbital sander and made sure to scuff the surface very well.
Now, remove both seats. The picture shows the removal screws for the front seat. Unscrew each, there is one on both sides under the seat as shown.
Now remove the helmet holder bolts from the rear of the tail cowling.
Now remove the bolts at the front of the tail cowling, one on each side.
If you have not done so already, go to this site: Link to dogbutter's CW Fender Eliminator Installation Follow the directions on how to cut the tail fender away if you have not already done so. Be sure to follow the directions very carefully. Once you are done, your tail should look like the picture here.
Now to make the outline of the tail on the metal. Lay the tail on the metal as shown. Be sure to extend the tail 1 1/4" over the metal as shown in the next picture, and use your marker to outline. You will outline will extend down approximately 11" from the top of the metal.
Here is what I meant from the overhang.
This picture may look a bit confusing, but I figured it would be a lot easier to show where all the measurements are, rather than try to explain them to you blindly. Make all your markings on the metal at the measurements shown in this picture. The two holes 1 3/4" down from the top fold, will be used to hold the tailight supports, eliminator, and license bracket together. The two small strips with circles in them on the bottom, will be your tailight supports. Note the dashed lines; these will be bend points later on, DO NOT CUT THESE.
Now for the fun part, cutting out the eliminator. Using the measurement marks you made in the last step, carefully use your jigsaw to make all the required cuts. Take your time because you do not want to screw this up, or it may cost another $6.00 for new metal.
Remeber those bend points I was talking about. Here is where you use them. As you can see I used a strip of metal and some clamps to hold the eliminator down so I could make the bends. This worked pretty good. Now bend the lower bend point down to about 45 degrees. Bend the upper bend point up to about 45 degrees. (The top bend point is where the tailight will rest.)
Drill two holes in the lower bend portion of the eliminator. You can drill them anywhere. I drilled them 2 1/4" from the sides. These will be used to hold the eliminator on the bike. Also you can drill the lock hole now as well. Be sure to align the hole center on the eliminator approx. 1 1/4" from bottom of eliminator. Align lock with nub as shown in Link to dogbutter's CW Fender Eliminator Installation
Line the eliminator up with the plastic strip left on the bikes fender, and drill the holes in the them. Remember, you will use some nuts and bolts to hold the eliminator on here later, so drill carefully.
Back to those tailight strips I talked about earlier. Cut these out and drill a 1/2" hole approximately 1/4" down from the top of the support as shown. Drill slowly or the drill will snag and tear the metal up, trust me. (note: this will be on the opposite end of the bend point) You will use the rubber grommets taken from the stock fender and insert them into the 1/2" holes. Now make a 45 degree bend approx. 1" up from the bottom of the opposite end. You can also drill the attaching point hole in the bent end. (I used rivets to hold the tailight supports and license plate bracket (described later) together. You can use nuts and bolts if you like. Just drill accordingly)
Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the license bracket on the metal, so I made one up in paint shop. The dimensions are as follows: -9 1/2" in width -1 3/4" in height (All bends are shown in next picture) -Top bend: 3/4" from top -Side bends: 1 1/4" from side -Cut-outs: 3/4 x 1 1/4" All bends are 90 degree bends
Here is the license bracket cut out and bent. The 3/4" top strip is going to mount to the eliminator. Again drill mounting holes which will correspond to the holes made 1 3/4" down from the top fold in the eliminator . The tailight supports, the eliminator, and the license bracket will all be held together through these holes. (I used rivets, but you can use nuts and bolts, like I said earlier.)
Now all the pieces should be cut out and bent. They are now ready for painting. Since you already sanded the metal earlier, clean all the parts in warm soapy water. This will remove your greasy fingerprints and anything else that will not allow the paint to stick.
Here is a picture just before installation. I used rivets as I explained earlier to hold all the parts together. Use whatever works for you. Notice the oreientation of the lock. (note: I had to use an extra piece of the metal as a shim under the lock clip, you will too) Also notice the bends made in the tailight supports; you may not need these, but if the tailight does not line up perfectly, you may need to adjust slightly. I used needle-nose pliers to adjust my supports, worked fine. The eliminator has also been painted at this point. Be sure you sanded as mentioned earlier, then add 2 coats of primer following directions on can. Once primer is dried, paint to color of your choice. (note: paint prior to installing lock or tailight. I also painted all pieces seperately.) Refer back to Link to dogbutter's CW Fender Eliminator Installation for the lock clip which will hold the lock cable taught under the seat. Mine came out ok, but you can probably figure out something better than I did.
And now the moment you have been wating for. Installation!! If all went well, you can attach the eliminator to the bike using the two small mounting holes made in the lower bend earlier. Once it is attached, CAREFULLY put the tail cowl back on the bike. (Yoo dont want to scratch it.) You will have to pull the tail cowl sides over the eliminator with a little stretching. Again be careful. Once everything is lined up, re-attach the tail cowl in the reverse order of the way you took it off. Then re-install seats. Voila!, now you are done and can smugly ask your friends why they paid so much on their eliminators. Enjoy!
