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I would like to hear some opinions on this. I have a 2002 cbr600f4i running +3 rear, stock front. I believe that makes my setup 16/49.

Which setup works better or is more efficient? -1/+2 (which would be 15/48) or +3 in the rear (16/49)? What does everyone else here run, and what do you think of it?

I don't care as much about top end, but would prefer not to lose too much. I'm basically after the most effecient setup while gaining more acceleration. What are the ups and downs when changing the front sprocket vs the rear in size? I know final drive ratio comes into play, but I'm not an expert on that.

Thanks in advance,

KillerBee001

PCIIIusb (w/custom map), +3 Sprocket Specialist rear, EVK 520 chain (chrome), Scotts steering dampner, Galfer SS lines (front & rear) w/HH pads, Micron CF slip-on (high mount), Vortex frame sliders, Targa seat cowl, 20 shot dry NOS. Soon to install HRC quick throttle.

The better way to think of this is 0/+3 vs 0/+5 (or -1/0 vs -1/+2) since -1 in front is about +3 in the rear.

So how are you defining "efficient"??  That makes a big difference.

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badfish '05 600RR Purple/Black

abadfish:

The better way to think of this is 0/+3 vs 0/+5 (or -1/0 vs -1/+2) since -1 in front is about +3 in the rear.

So how are you defining "efficient"??  That makes a big difference.

Good question. I guess what I want to know is:

A) Why would you go -1 in the front instead of going +3 in the rear? Any adverse effects from changing one sprocket over the other (front vs rear)?

B) I see all of these -1/+2 kits which makes me believe that it must be the "recommended re-gearing method". If so, why is that particular ratio so popular?

C) I'm already at +3 rear, would I even see much of a difference going to a -1/+2 (or the equivalent +5 rear) setup?

In the end, I'm looking for a nice balance. I want just a little more acceleration, but without sacrificing too much off the top. I may already have the setup that I want, but wanted to hear what others have to say (just to be sure).

Thanks again,

KillerBee001

KillerBee001:

A) Why would you go -1 in the front instead of going +3 in the rear? Any adverse effects from changing one sprocket over the other (front vs rear)?

no.

B) I see all of these -1/+2 kits which makes me believe that it must be the "recommended re-gearing method". If so, why is that particular ratio so popular?

Marketing.

C) I'm already at +3 rear, would I even see much of a difference going to a -1/+2 (or the equivalent +5 rear) setup?

In the end, I'm looking for a nice balance. I want just a little more acceleration, but without sacrificing too much off the top. I may already have the setup that I want, but wanted to hear what others have to say (just to be sure).

You have to realize that there is no perfect balance, no magic combination, or one size fits all mentality that plays a role here.  While there can be a difference between stock and -1/+2 (or whatever combination you choose), most riders won't even really utilize the gear ratios to anywhere near their potential.  Generally, gearing is chosen for a specific pupose (track, stunting, gas mileage, whatever).  You're not going find something that works for everything... it just doesn't exist.

FWIW, I'm at 0/+3.  It works well enough for me and my track skills (or lack thereof )

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badfish '05 600RR Purple/Black

i thought that going -1 in the front instead of +3 in the back was a cheater drag racer trick. they can only see your rear sprocket.

im running -1/+2 on my f4i. i use it to commute and have fun. it might be a little extreme for freeway cruising. i probably top out around the low 130s. just my two cents.

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02 f4i
repsol replica fairings, scotts steering stabilizer, galfer s.s. brake lines, galfer carbon brake pads, pcIII (euro arrow map) ape cct, arrow titanium race exhaust, k&n filter, vortex 15t front sprocket, vortex frame sliders, hot bodies flushies, cheetah racing smoked windscreen, homemade fender eliminator

01 xr50r
50stunt handbrake kit, 50stunt rear pegs, turboglen 12 bar, bbr big bar kit, douglas billet front wheel, irc mb38 street tires

one advantage of going -1 in the front instead is chain effects. so long as the chain is not stretched out, you should have enough swingarm space to do -1. with -3, you may have to add new links if you're not close to the end yet.

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"Leaders are like tea; put them in hot water to find out how strong they are." Anonymous

KillerBee001  did you have to get a longer chain when you added the 49T sprocket?

If so was it a 110 chain and did you have to take a link out?

I want to do the same thing with my 04.

Does the front wheel come up when you punch it?

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Lifes too short Play HARD

Bumblebee 2004 CBR600 F4i

I replaced my chain and front sprocket as well, but honestly don't remember how many links. I'd have to check my chain and get back to you(did this mod about two years ago).

I remember that I did cut the chain because I cut it too short. I have two master rivet links on there now. I "think" it was a 120 link EK520MVX chrome chain.

Honestly, I haven't noticed too much of a difference since the switch to +3 rear from stock(almost none). If you're looking for more kick, you might want to do the -1/+2 instead. I'm waiting to install my HRC quick throttle as soon as I figure out what part number cable A is. I already have cable B (return cable).

Killerbee001

I just might try the -1 +2

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Lifes too short Play HARD

Bumblebee 2004 CBR600 F4i

f4i206:

im running -1/+2 on my f4i. i use it to commute and have fun. it might be a little extreme for freeway cruising. i probably top out around the low 130s. just my two cents.

Dang is that it, 130...really?  Can somebody give an actual mph with this gearing?  I'm putting these sprockets on this week, but i'm hoping i'll still be able to hit 140ish?  no?

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2002 silver/red f4i
Two bro's slip on
painted windscreen

the primary advantage to dropping teeth in the front is that the front sprockets are so much easier to change than the rear.

the disadvantage is that a smaller sprocket means you're asking your chain to wrap around a tighter radius.  -1 tooth isn't a big deal. -3 is.  the chain is asked to bend further, more often.  Maybe this leads to premature wear, and maybe it doesn't, but I prefer not to risk it.

going -1/+2 usually means that you can stick with the stock number of chain links, which is why this is the popular route.  it's also convenient to buy both gears and a chain as a set, or all at the same time (if you're going to change the rear sprocket, you may as well change everything...)

it definitely hurts top speed, but how often are you riding at top speed??  be honest ;)  the bigger deal is how it hurts fuel economy. 

(my bike is -1/+1 or 2.  the previous owner did it, and i like it for the track)

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'93 CBR F2 track slave
'97 EX-500 daily ride/makes the F2 feel faster than it is)

"track riding makes heroin addiction look like a mild craving for something salty."

About the top speed with the 1 down 2 up rear. 

I clocked 140mph with a Garmin on my bike with this gearing.  That was just about all the rpm's could take, i didn't hold it up there long so it might go a couple mph's faster but 140 seemed to be about the max with this gearing.

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2002 silver/red f4i
Two bro's slip on
painted windscreen