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Bike died on me last week, and finally had time today to go out and look at her. Charged the battery to right above 12.3V (using a trickler) and cranked her up.

After letting her warm up a bit, I rev'd her up and around 3k rpm the rectifier had smoke coming out of it. The harness has a nice burn mark on it now, and I can see some melted plastic on the plug to the rectifier.

The battery is brand new. I know the rectifier was replaced shortly before I bought her last year. Looks identical to this one.  http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/19911994-honda-cbr-600-regulator-rectifier-p-190.html?osCsid=71053d1155c0613336fb4836a8461e86

Do the aftermarket rectifiers give out a lot too?  I'd hate to burn up another rectifier if my alternator is bad or something.

thanks

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94 CBR F2
--520 Driven (14 front, 45 rear)
--D&D exhaust
98 GSXR 600 SRAD
--Jardine
96 Magna 750 sold
80 cb900c sold

i had an aftermarket one only lasted me 4 months hondas is the best. just test your wires to your stator none should have any resistance to each other or to ground is thats ok and ur battery is good then ur rectifier jus took a dump

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-1997 cbr600f3 RIDING NAKED!!!!
-F4i guages
-full hindle exhaust
- jt 520 conversion
- -1 +8
- k&n filter
- jet kit stage 1
- custom rear signals
- custom momentary cut out
- lowered 1 inch front and back
- front end strap for track
FUTURE PLANS
- 08 600rr

I am actually at the very same juncture you are.

I was riding my 97' F3 down the free way when my bike just shut off and died.... took it home and replaced the battery and R/R (needing new of both anyways i went ahead and got em) and BOOM it's Alive! i ride for 2 days and smell something melting while stopped at an intersection after going to lunch that day pulled over immedietly and tried to find the source, it was the pig-tail plug to the R/R, and after further over-looking it was specifically one of the alternator wires(yellow one), the one directly located above the Ground wire(green one).

Is there a short somewhere, are the F3's known for any type of problems like this? I haven't even been able to get a multimeter on this yet but i was fishing around here and saw your post. so if anyone has any suggestions or links to read, please, do tell :)

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97' CBR F3 Street Fighter'd
I like to call him 'Frankenstein'

The reg/rect is a common issue with the F2/F3's. By design the reg/rect needs to dissapate heat. The factory one and the factory replacement are not that great. Most of the aftermarket ones I have seen are also not that great. There is a Japanese replacement made by TourMax that I have seen first hand work time and time again, even under additional voltage requirements like extra lighting and accessories.

I have yet to see a stator (what others have been calling an alternator) go out on one that wasn't related to a crash or severe overheating. And in that case it resulted in an undercharge condition, not overcharge. What does happen though, is the diodes in the positive side of the rectifier (stators AC to DC conversion) shorts out and creates a backward voltage path for the battery. If the regulator should kick in then it shorts the positive voltage of the battery to ground and burns the plug.  Loose battery cables seem to have some relationship to this happening on the cheap reg/rects.   

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01 Aprilia Falco SL 1000 - Ohlins, Derestricted, SL Carbon, Chip'd, 520 Conv. Flies!!!

94 CBR 600 F2,F3 Engine,F4i Guages/Body/Tank/RamAir,Short Shift Kit,14/43 Sprockets,DynoJet Stg 1,K&N, Yoshimura RS3, V&H PowerPack, 520 conv,Sliders, O2 Sensor - and Sold it! more ...

years ago I just bought a 600rr regulator off ebay and wired it in.

Then I put an old pentium heat sink on it and mounted it in a new location (naked bike , most everything hidden)

works great , not a single problem still

Frogvent51:

I am actually at the very same juncture you are.

I was riding my 97' F3 down the free way when my bike just shut off and died.... took it home and replaced the battery and R/R (needing new of both anyways i went ahead and got em) and BOOM it's Alive! i ride for 2 days and smell something melting while stopped at an intersection after going to lunch that day pulled over immedietly and tried to find the source, it was the pig-tail plug to the R/R, and after further over-looking it was specifically one of the alternator wires(yellow one), the one directly located above the Ground wire(green one).

Is there a short somewhere, are the F3's known for any type of problems like this? I haven't even been able to get a multimeter on this yet but i was fishing around here and saw your post. so if anyone has any suggestions or links to read, please, do tell :)

did you ever figure out how the second r/r fried up?

sorry to revive this post...but i just got a new r/r 300 miles ago, an aftermarket one, and it just fried...funny enough the old one now works fine....kinda funny if u think about it.

Many of the problem with the stock r/r can be traced back to 2 things. Put some heat sink grease behind the r/r, so the heat can conduct into the aluminum plate behind it. Second, use some dieletric grease on the connector & connections going to the r/r. Any corrosion with cause resistance and generate heat. That why you see fried r/r wires. Probably also explains why the old one now works again.

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94 F2 - Bone stock the way Honda made it.

Here's a good solution:
http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/287913.aspx