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Hi, I searched and found others with the same problem; but no one really resolved it.

I lowsided a few weeks ago and broke a few parts. Mechanically I basically had to replace the gauge cluster and right foot peg. I put everything on today, but the brake light doesn't work. The previous owner installed an integrated tail light kit and it worked fine before. The two bulbs are on, and both filaments in each bulb are fine. I'm not sure if its the running lights and the brake lights won't come on, or if its the brake lights and they won't turn off; they usually pulsate if they're being applied though. I checked the front lever and switch, they're ok. Does anyone have any suggestions or experienced this before?

goosane:

Mechanically I basically had to replace the gauge cluster and right foot peg.

There is a spring-loaded mechanical switch on the right rearset for the brake light.  Did you adjust that properly?

I checked the front lever and switch, they're ok.

How did you check the front switch?  How do you know its okay?

Please introduce yourself in the New Members section.

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badfish '05 600RR Purple/Black

I think Abad is being grumpy.

Get a voltmeter!  And actually test wheter you get any power at the bulb.  Check if the switches and wiring provide continuity, check if the bulbs work, etc, etc.

Haha, you cant test for a lot of things by just looking at it

Sorry for just jumping in and asking for advice. I've just been waiting on the parts for 2 weeks and I'm eager to get back on the road before the season is completely over.

I tested for continuity with a volt meter on the rear switch by connecting a lead to the positive and negative on the connector end, then pulling on the spring. It beeped, which meant the switch connected. For the front switch I disconnected it from the lever, then put a lead on each prong and pressed the button. Volt meter said it was good. I looked up the wiring diagram and tested for continuity in each wire going from the front and rear switches, at every connector point. Each one checked out ok.

Any help is greatly appreciated. This is extremely frustrating.

First check the fuse.  If those are fine what you can do is use a rubber band or tape or something to keep the brake applied (just enough to turn on the brake lights) and use the v-meter to see if you're getting power.  First start at the bulb terminals.  If there are three then one of them is ground, one is parking thats always on, and one is brake, you'll have to figure out which one is which (use the wiring diagram for colors of the wires).  If you get power at the bulb socket then its the bulb gone bad. If not - work your way testing deeper to see where you actually pick up power to find the faulty segment of wiring or what not. 
My guess it is some connection that came lose after the crash, those are very common.  Oftentimes its the ground wire.  Look at your schematic to see which one is the ground in the bulb socket.  Connect one terminal of the v-meter to it and the other to metal unpainted part of the frame or even better the negative terminal of the battery and see if there's continuity.

a quick way to check the switch in the front would be to take unplug the two wires going to the master cylinder, and touch the connectors together

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96 F3, 98 motor, Vanes and Hines headers and mid pipe with cut Yoshi can, K&N filter, Stage 1 Dyno Jet Kit, dirtbike shifter to eliminate linkage and reverse it as well, naked with racing 905 stunt cage and 12 bar, hand brake, Goodridge kevlar lines in front with 2007 GSX-R radial master cylinder

I tested through all the wiring and found out it was the turn signal integrator kit. After I was certain it was at fault, I opened it up and the board was burned in several spots. I guess it's a bit of a relief seeing as how I don't have to strip any wires out of the harness. It still sucks that I have to wait even longer to order it now. Thanks for all the help guys; I'll let you know if it doesn't work.

Installed a new signal integrator kit and it works great now! I'm glad it gave me a chance to organize the mess of wiring and make proper connections with heat shrink tubing instead of twist and wrap with electrical tape. Thanks for the advice.