LOL.........It wasn't actually a guess, since I was helping the University here work on their engine.
Yes and no as to your question......yes to the velosity stack, but mount it so that the stack is mounted to the restrictor, which is mounted to the throttle body. Then hide the velosity stack inside an air filter. Most of the designs that I've seen have a K&N style air filter (off a carbed bike), mounted to the throttle body. This means that the air has to pass through the filter then the restrictor, tb, intake, then the intake port, past the valve into the cyl. thats a long way, so why not help the airflow, and speed it up before it enters the restrictor in the first place?..
Think of it this way....why do you think when people concentrate on the seat/valve angles on a particular head? because as the valve first starts to open, it's like a mini venturi. . I'll try to explain why a little better.......I hope.
The air that is traveling down the intake port is moving at a particular speed, it then starts to slow down as it reaches the valve seat .....it then has to pass through the opening (between the valve, and valve seat which is quite small at low valve lifts), then it speeds up again as it goes into the chamber/cyl.. The air flow is suppost to speed up as it goes between the seat, and valve. This is why so many cyl head guru's spend a lot of time/focus on the low valve lift flow #'s, by trying various seat angles/radius designs.
Put it this way...I got an increase of 40% in airflow at .025" valve lift over stock, with the port design/valve/seat angles..... It avg around 17% increase in airflow at all valve lifts. I have yet to get my bike dyno'd only because I need a custom map made, and there's only one guy around here with a Eddy Current dyno, who charges an arm/leg for a map. Hopefully next year I can afford it........LOL.
Now before you ask me what I did to the head........I did alll the work myself....and this is where it will get quite expensive......and I lost track of how many hours/heads I went through. It has 600rr valves, springs, retainers( can't remember if I used the RR or F4i retainers now that I think about it), it has smaller intake ports, the chambers have to be reworked, as well as the head gasket( this was the hardest part), and the block( for valve unshrouding)........ and the Stock pistons have to have larger/deeper valve reliefs for clearance. you'll also need smaller shims(way smaller, since the 600rr valves are longer, I believe the shims were around .030" thinner than stock).
Like I said....be creative.
Jeff
My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"