Unfortunately these aren't pics, but fairly descent diagrams of both removing the california emissions. Also here are diagrams of modifying federal "Pulse Secondary Air Supply System" to turn the pair valves into a free crankcase vaccum pump. Very simple stuff. I had to dig deep into my head to recollect the details, but I am 99% sure it is accurate. I've tried and tested both mods and they had no problems with the ECU. Details of the mod can be found at a link included here from another post with more details. Sorry there isn't more information included between here and the prior post but I'm down in the dumps at the moment. Broke up with the fiancee, so can't think straight. Another reason why bikes are better than babes. But anyways, drop me a line if you have any questions.
One more thing, to repeat from a past post. I recommend leaving the PAIR system alone. Read the posting. Sorry there isn't a listing of the proper size hoses and plugs. I'll get around to it sooner or later. Here are the links to the diagrams I modified for this and the link to the post I left before. The diagrams are large, 100k-200k but I made them that large so you can print out them out clear full sheet. If you are going to do one of these mods, print out BOTH diagrams before and after and look them over to see the differences and then see if they look like the make sense when you compare them to your bike. Remember, Think a million times, tear the sucker apart once. Thanks
KooLaid
here is the posting from earlier:
God that was an easy mod on my Cali F4i. I used and read and studied my facotry manual first to make sure I don't screw up, but it's just simple plugging of the hoses. Lemme see if I can recollect. Under the bike, unplug the electrical plug from the solenoid/valve connected to the cannister. Then unplug ALL hoses from the valve and canister. Unbolt gas tank, prop up high. Tip for this is to remove the two bolts at your thigh on rear fairing, slide the tank back an inch or two, and use a tie down strap and coat hanger on from bolt holes on tank to hang it from the garage door opener. There will be a small slender 1/4" (?) hose that runs upward from the canister and splits with a 4 way "T" to each throttle body. It's easier to just use one plug to plug at the 4 way "T", than it is to try to stick ur hand into the tight spot to plug at the 4 throttle bodies. And then there will be a thick hose running from the gas tank to the canister. Keep the hose attached to the gas tank, but run the end you disconnected from the canister to the little hose slot at the bottom of the fairing with the rest of the hoses. Oh yeah, the canister and solenoid/valve is held on with I believe 3 screws. OK and here's the run down. Disconnect all hoses from the solenoid and canister. Unclip plug from solenoid. Unbolt them, so that they're completely removed from bike. Let it all dangle for now. There should be 2 hoses dangling now if I haven't forgotten anything. One from the fume vent from the gas tank and one from the throttle bodys. Remove the front seat, unbolt the tank, and 2 thigh rear fairing bolts and string the tank up from the garage door opener. Unplug the hose running from the former canister at where it splits to a 4 way "t", and plug it there. Then tug at the fume hose running to tank to the canister on the bottom side of the tank and pull it completely out. It SHOULD be the thick one, the thin one is for overflow fuel. Either way it won't hurt them since you will need to run them to the same place anyways. So you then run this fume hose down through the motor and out the bottom. And then you tuck away that clip from the solenoid away from everything. Reassembly tank and seat. Fire it up. Should be no warning lights or anything. Just like normal. I did notice a nice little meaty boost in the mid range. Will take you.... I say 2 hours at most. $5 in rubber plugs or nothing at all, just need ONE rubber plug bootie. No need to remove fairings. Call me if you need any assistance over the phone, I'm stuck in colorado now, used to live in california.
If you're wondering about what each hose and wire does down there, I'll try to recollect off the top of head, it's been about a year since I did this. Wire sends signal to solenoid to open when bike is running. And closed when off to trap fumes in the tank. One thick hose runs from the gas tank to let fumes out. That thick hose connects to the solenoid which when is on/open, allows the fumes to flow through it and out another short section of thick hose and run into the canister. Ok so far? Well the canister filters or traps or something. Well it gets filtered and exits through the thin hose and runs into the throttle bodies to get burned in the motor. It's all emissions. OK I think I forgot one hose, another thick one but I'm sure it's not important ;-) Plus if you're really serious about it, then I'll dig into my materials and find out. But it's easy. And you will be left with one hose, the one from the fumes hose from the tank that you will run down with the other hoses. So from that squid under the bike, you will be left with only one functional hose. Oh yeah, this is the CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS part.
Then there's the FEDERAL EMISSIONS section, the PAIR valves. This runs the crank case fumes into your air box to be reburned, and takes clean filter air from the air box and injects it into the exhaust ports so that the air coming from the tail pipe will be "cleaner". It's actually just diluted, putting clean air into bad air, like water added to coffee. I hated this mod and returned it back to stock. The mod consists of running the crank case hose to the pair valves, the valves create a negative pressure (suction), which sucks the dirty out of the crank case and out the tail pipe, and creates a vacuum in the crankcase, something supposedly boosts horsepower. Then you just plug the holes in the air box from the hoses, and leave the valve/solenoid attached to the frame and plugged in electrically alone. This solenoid/valve is located behind the steering head between the frame rails and is plumbed in to the hoses between the pair valves and clean air section of the air box. When I did this mod, I lost alot of engine braking, but it was a VERY smooth throttle. My bike has big mid range BITE, and this just made it smooooooth from low to top end. I like the bite/jump in power when you hit mid range rpm. And I like the engine braking. So if you want smooth throttle from low to high, and reduced engine braking (less rear wheel skipping when down shifting???) give it a try. Personally I left the federal emissions alone after I returned it back to original. Oh yeah, NO PROBLEMS, NO PROBLEM LIGHTS after both those mods performed and returning the fed emissions back.
559-304-3967
CALI EMISSIONS Diagrams:
Smog - Oem
Smog - Mod
PAIR MOD Diagrams:
Pair - Oem
Pair - Mod
Fresno, CA/Colorado Springs, CO
2002 F4i Red/Black
LeoVinci Carbon High Mnt S/O;Vortex Frame Sliders;Hotbodies Undertail;Integ Tail Lights;PCIII;K&N Air/Oil Filter;Red Fox Carbon Hugger;APE Manual CCT;Removed Cal Emission/Intake Baffles/O2 Sensor;520