CBRWorld.net

BTW...Khan....This mechanic that gave you the info about the OEM CCTL failing....., is this the same mechanic that gave you the info on rejetting you're carbs......We both know where that got you....

 

Jeff,

You should read my post carefully  before putting the blame on my mechanic. Where in the post have I said that the carbs have been modified and the problem that i ws having is due to that.

The topic of the post is Pilot screw not modding.

you should get your facts right mate!

khan

---

Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

droid_khan:

droid_khan:

Uncle Jeff,

Im not gonna go on about this anymore because (Is it because You really have no idea what you're talking about?) Ok Jeff, You are right and I'm wrong. Happy NOw! I dont want to take the glory (glory.....?, You're missing the whole point!) away from you after all (seems like)  actually thats all I do is cyl heads.   you do this for a living now and Im just a graphic designer who use to be a mechanic. no matter how many reasons i give you about the OEM tensioners being rubbish and no moding will fix them for good you will have a BS reason to proof you are right. LOL....I love people like this.....they talk to some motorcycle "EXPERT" about the OEM CCTL, now all of a sudden THEY'RE an expert on the CCTL........I believe I have given you more than enough reasons why you're second hand info is just BS....I'm still waiting for you to explain how the OEM CCTL works up to 5000rpms, fails between 5000-7000 rpms, but then starts working again after 7000.??????? THE RATTLE IS THERE THROUGHOUT THE RPM RANG but you can can hear it most between 4-5k rpm. Atleast thats how it is on my bike which i know for a fact.(Fact...The common rattle on the F4i only happens between 5000-7000rpms.  That's it.) If it fails, then that's it.  It will not work at any rpm.  It will rattle throughout the rpm range.(from idle to redline).  If you actually did know what you were talking about, you would understand the principles on how the OEM CCTL worked, and how there's no possible way the OEM CCTL could fail only at a certain rpm.  Either it's applying tension to the cam chain, or it's not.  This is how an automatic tensioner works....even better is how the Chain guide has No marks on the back of it other than a shiney spot where the tip presses against it, but you keep insisting that the guide is smashing the tip.  If shite is smashing inside the motor, there WILL BE SOME KIND OF EVIDENCE.   SO.....Are you going to answer the question?  I've only got u to say that moding fixes the problem. REALLY.....I believe there's several people on this board that have done this mod, and had it work.....By the sounds of it, you must work for a parts dealer and are making money from the sales of OEMs and replacing them also... winkwink, just kidding. 

As for the evidence, the markings on the shaft, half way down proves that im right about where the rattle comes from, and that is not the tip.  As I already stated before, The 600rr has the same marks on the shaft.  The RR doesn't rattle does it?  So how are you connecting the dots to get to this conclusion???????   Yeah I know...You're Tensioner had the marks, so it must be the cause of the rattle.......Since the graphic designer(who used to be a mechanic) says so......

 

I will go ahead and get an APE manual tensioner and if it fixes the rattle then thats all i care about.

SO THE FACTS ARE! 

OEM rattles (know it for a fact)
Modded OEM rattles (tried it, know it for a fact)

APE Manual (will not rattle, yet to trying it)  Make sure you try what I said.... Even better, put the J23 tensioner back in the bike, go get a dyno graph of the HP/Tq readings, then install the APE tensioner, Adjust it so it rattles at idle(since you seem to think that the rattle with the OEM CCTL installed and the rattle with the APE tensioner are the same)and then go do another pull.  Post the charts.   G'night Once I istall the manual i will know for sure where the rattle is coming from, I've learned this the hard way and will never go by someone's crazy moding ideas again.  Yeah we get it....the mod didn't work for you.....I really want you to install the APE tensioner Exactly the way I've told you.  This way you can have your proof of what the cam chain/guide sounds like when it's loose, and it's outcome.( I already know whats going to happen)

By the way, who are these ppl that have done the mod and it has fix the rattle. Jeff, saying people on this board will not do it. I need names, facts and proof.

Jeff

Jeff

Khan

G'day, will keep you all posted.

Khan

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

You didn't answer my question....Is this the same mechanic? 

I wonder where I got that from...Hmmmm.....?

thanks so much for the detailed explaination.

I started out with 2 turn, i hadnt split the 4 carbs apart so balance was good. I re balanced it using a home made balancer and ended up with 2.5 turn from close, she runs like a dream now.

I did speak to a honda mechanice and according to him, jet kits are a waist of money and time, they also dont last every long and need to be replced so im gonna stay with stock. He recommend a small washer at the back of the needle making it shorter which will deliver more fuel and with the K&N filter which i got the match sould be perfect.

the link ws great, I would recommend it to anyone. Great Read!

Once again, Thank you for your help!  

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

Jeff,

I'm not sure  what you are trying to proof to the readers and urselft by including comments what were made in other posts under entirly different topics.

Jeff,
Don't get side tracked, keep the posts simlple so reader can follow the main topic with ease.

Please stay on topic and please dont get personal. I understand that you will not admit the fact the you are wrong no matter how much i prove it you, you will  hang on to this rediculis method of modding an OEM tensioner to stop it from rattling no matter what.

Stopping the tip of an OEM cctl from moving will not fix the problem, I knew this way before i tried it but I still went ahead to know for a fact and I was right.

Jeff, one more thing..

post abuse will not fix the problem nor will it proove you right.

Khan

---

Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

droid_khan:

Jeff,

I'm not sure  what you are trying to proof to the readers and urselft by including comments what were made in other posts under entirly different topics.   You know rxactly why I posted them.  not only does it show you don't know what you're talking about, neither does your mechanic.

Jeff,
Don't get side tracked, keep the posts simlple so reader can follow the main topic with ease. I'm sure the people on this board are smart enough to understand what I'm getting at......I'm sorry you felt it was getting too complicated.....That ususlly happens when you don't know what you're talking about in the first place......

Please stay on topic and please dont get personal.How did I get personal? I understand that you will not admit the fact the you are wrong no matter how much i prove it you,Where did you ever prove anything? LOL  I don't know what you're smoking,  You haven't even answered 1 of my questions so far.  The only thing you have proven, is that you have no idea what you're talking about. That was easy to see in you're first post.  Sorry the truth might hurt, but it's still the truth.  You just keep going on about how the shaft is causing the rattle....But have yet to prove why.....you will  hang on to this rediculis method of modding an OEM tensioner to stop it from rattling no matter what.  Because it works.....I actually have done the mod, and never had a problem.  I have a J23 CCTL on my bike right now....No rattle...But I must be just imagining that I have no noise.....And the other 30 bikes that I've done, their owners must be just imagining also.

Stopping the tip of an OEM cctl from moving will not fix the problem, I knew this way before i tried it but I still went ahead to know for a fact and I was right.

Jeff, one more thing..

post abuse will not fix the problem nor will it proove you right.  Post abuse.......LOL....That's funny......LOL....

Jeff......LOL..

Khan

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

---

Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

droid_khan:

droid_khan:

Jeff,

I’m not sure what you are trying to proof to the readers and yourself by including comments what were made in other posts under entirely different topics. You know rxactly why I posted them. not only does it show you don’t know what you’re talking about, neither does your mechanic. no mate it proves this; no matter how much I know or think in your situation about somthing I have to have first hand knowlage, take other’s opinions into consideration (a second opinion) THEN make up my mind based on first-hand knowledge AND expert options that make sense, but your ridiculous method really doesn’t make any sense. Im sure you will agree that there is more play/movement in the shaft then there is in the tip on the tensioner how in the hell can such movement such as the tip of the ternsioner makes as im experiencing and im sure lots other people are also. Now i know this not because I’ve made up my mind such as you but by research, experince and first-hand knowledge. I’ve spoken to SEVERAL DIFFERENT mechanic and by far your method makes least sense  (To you) BUT I still went ahead with it to simply eliminate another ridiculous possibility.

Uncle Jeff,

The difference between me and you is that you’ve only got YOUR experience and opinions to go by where as I take in all sides into consideration such as:

What I have experienced
A number of posts online
What other expert mechanics think
And even a person who has limited experience such as yourself beliefs

 

 

Jeff,

Don’t get side tracked, keep the posts simple so reader can follow the main topic with ease. I’m sure the people on this board are smart enough to understand what I’m getting at......I’m sorry you felt it was getting too complicated....here you go again trying to make me out a dummy.How am I doing that?....I'm making you look like a dummy because of  what you've already posted??????  That usually happens when you don’t know what you’re talking about in the first place...... EXACTLY MY POINT, u r only trying to proof to yourself and others that i don’t know what im talking about just to be right where as im doing this for research and knowledge even as ridiculous as an opinion can be such as yours can paint the picture.

Please stay on topic and please don’t get personal.How did I get personal? humm.. please read your posts. I understand that you will not admit the fact the you are wrong no matter how much i prove it you,Where did you ever prove anything? LOL I don’t know what you’re smoking, I’m smoking Afghani hash..lol just kidding..I think thats what you need to smoke Jeff to think a bit outside the square(It's "think ouside the box")or maybe you should take your head out of the box it's in......Then maybe you could see why what you think , is so far off..... that you are in. You haven’t even answered 1 of my questions so far. what question, I’ve answered them all where as you haven’t. The only thing you have proven, is that you have no idea what you’re talking about. here you go again... That was easy to see in you’re first post. ...and again.. Nice defence Jeff!Well...are you going to answer any of my questions?  Because so far you haven't! Sorry the truth might hurt, but it’s still the truth. You just keep going on about how the shaft is causing the rattle....But have yet to prove. I have proved it by showing you the image of an old, damaged tensioner, i’ve prven it to you by stating opinions of QUALIFIED MECHANIC such as Greg, of "HONDA Cycle City" in Sydney Tel: 61 2 95461199, my personal experience with CBR600 F series not just F4i such as you and by posting other riders comments., .....you will hang on to this ridiculous method of modding an OEM tensioner to stop it from rattling no matter what. Because it works.....I actually have done the mod, and never had a problem. I have a J23 CCTL on my bike right now....No rattle...But I must be just imagining that I have no noise....YES you may have no rattle but only until the life expectancy of the OEM runs out,Which is when?????????? where as a manual tensioner it will be for life of the bike. Its simple Jeff...

OEM: lots moving pats, lots of play and must be replaced after a short period of time.  Where are you getting this from?  YES it is true According to you........ and this is where you come in Jeff; there are people who have modded tensioner on some particular cbr models to eliminated SOME noise which is created by the tip of the tensioner shaft but that is nothing compared to the noise that it starts to make once the automatic tensioners wares down and gets sloppy like all moving metal parts do. Where are the worn parts?  Show me pics!  The only pic you posted was of two CCTL's   They are only used by mechanically inclined <finally you got one thing right! or simply lazy rider who don’t care for throwing money away and in many ways risking damage to the cam chain.

Manual: simple design, no moving parts such as springs that will get loose and stop providing the tension that’s required. Threads that will ware down and holes/ housing that will get larger from excessive movement.Really....?  So you have the blueprints/tolerances of the OEM CCTL, and have measured the CCTL after it's worn out, to see what the difference is....Thats why I actually measured the end play of the shaft while you just guessed what it was....  There is just too many variations involved. Manuals are created for all sports bike such as Suzuki, Yamaha Kawasaki and not just Honda CBRs! They are used by professional riders/racers that will not have it any other way, And they are used by people who think a stock part is simply stock. If you are a person who has decided on a OEM tensioner then forget about that aftermarket exhaust system, forget about jetting and remapping the fuel management, forget about changing sprocket sizes because your just a stock kind of person who accepts what things are and not what they can be.(this is comming from a guy who decides to use the stock jetting in his bike after he puts a pipe and a K&N filter on it -with horrible results)You are such a hipocrite And the other 30 bikes that I’ve done, their owners must be just imagining also. Ok give me names and phone numbers or even show me a post made by one of these imaginary customers, I have and will be able to provide you with lots more proof when ever you need it.

Stopping the tip of an OEM cctl from moving will not fix the problem, I knew this way before i tried it but I still went ahead to know for a fact and I was right.

Jeff, one more thing..

post abuse will not fix the problem nor will it prove you right. Post abuse.......LOL....That’s funny......LOL.... Great reason Jeff

Khan

Jeff......LOL..

Khan

-------------------P.S-------------------

Nice job on your post : "HOW THE OEM CCTL WORKS "  See If you actually did know how it worked , you could have done the same thing.  Why don't you do one on  rejetting carbs.-Or lack there of..I'm sure people would find that one very helpful......

So as we can all see there are 7 MOVING parts that make up an OEM temnsioner and we all know this for a fact that the cam chain moves, virbrates and produces forces that travel down to the shaft then into the housing moving everthing from spring to clip. So why just stop at the tip and say the rattle comes from there with no proof in terms of ware and tare to that area. Jeff all evidence points to the OEM CCTL unit as a whole being a bad design not a particular section. Again...out of the 7 moving parts, which one shows signs of wear?  I've taken the CCTL apart, the pics are right there......The only thing that has marks on it, is the shaft, but the 600rr also has them, and it doesn't rattle....So again, my question is, if both have the same marks, but the 600rr doesn't rattle, how is this the cause of the rattle in the F4i?  Again, another question that will go unanswered.....

Jeff

 

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My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

Khan...people like you make me laugh.....

You really have no Idea why,  or how the noise is being created.  The only info you have is what a mechanic has told you.

You just keep saying that the OEM CCTL starts to rattle once it is worn out, and that the marks on the shaft are the proof.  Am I right so far? But.......yet the 600rr CCTL has the marks on the shaft, and it doesn't rattle....So how are the marks on the shaft proof that the CCTL is worn out?

You post a pic of two OEM CCTL's but again how does this show the CCTL failing?

You say that the shaft has 2mm of play.   Then when I actually measure it, and it's only .017", not .160" , you chance your answer to "I might have been exagerating a little"....

You say that your mechanic hit the tip of the CCTL with a hammer to show what the guide was doing to the tip when it's rattling.  But there's no deep marks in the back of the guide.  I then tell you to take a piece of aluminum and hit it with a hammer and see the marks for yourself.  You then say that you  believe the cam chain will never hit the tip in the same manner as the hammer.  Then why post it?  You also say that the rattle is from the  guide smashing the tip AND the shaft moving  side to side smashing the housing, and the shaft moving in and out.  The shaft doesn't move in and out when there's tension on the shaft.  Side movement is not going to give the chain any slack either.  So what do we have left......the guide smashing the tip, but yet there's no evidence of this.   BTW  the average human hair is .002" thick, so the shaft has the same movement as 8 1/2 hairs stacked on top of each other.......I ask you if your mechanic pulled the valve cover to see the guide smashing the tip, but again all you have is " maybe he has done it in the past".  Did you think to ask?  Why not?  You seem to be such a fact man.....you say that if you stick a screwdriver in the end of the OEM CCTL, if it is bad, the screwdriver will rattle, shake, and move around.  But it doesn't move in and out does it?  Put that screwdriver in any bolt hole, hell put it on top of the tank, and bring the revs up to the rattle sound, and it will do the same thing.   Did you try that with a bike that has no rattle? so how does this prove anything?

You ask me why people hear the rattling noise when adjusting the APE tensioner.   I then try to explain to you that the rattling noise IS THE CHAIN HAVING SLACK.  The rattling noise with the OEM CCTL IS NOT THE GUIDE HITTING THE TIP FROM CAM CHAIN SLACK. ( Which is why with the OEM CCTL the noise is heard a 5000-7000rpms only, while the noise with the APE tensioner  is heard at idle and up.).  

Now I've been re-reading you're posts, and you say that your noise is not there when your bike is cold, but as it warms up it gets louder...The OEM CCTL doesn't care if the motor is cold, or hot. As the engine gets hot, parts grow, which is why there's end play in the shaft.  I haven't measured the end play when the OEM CCTL is hot to even verify if the shaft even has that much play. (>.017)  If your bike is fine when cold..., again, how is this possible if the OEM CCTL has failed? You yourself said that you get to enjoy 5 min of smooth riding until it warms up.  So how is this possible with your  theory?   A failed/Loose cam chain doesn't care whether the engine is hot or cold.  if the OEM CCTL has failed, that's it. It stops working completely.  (That's what failed means)

You say that modding the CCTL will damage it much faster...In what way?  The harmonics travel down the shaft whether the CCTL has been modified or not.   

You say that you're not going to go on because no matter how many reasons you give me I have BS to prove I'm right......What reasons?  where did you give me a solid answer? You keep saying that the OEM CCTL has failed  by the markings on the shaft, but again, how is it you get smooth riding in until the bike has warmed up?  Why is it that the 600rr  tensioner has the same marking as the F4i, but the 600rr doesn't rattle?  How does this prove anything?

 Then you go on about post abuse.....the info I re-posted is what you typed.  Not me. !!!

Then you say that The difference between me and you is that you’ve only got YOUR experience and opinions to go by where as I take in all sides into consideration such as:

What I have experienced
A number of posts online
What other expert mechanics think
And even a person who has limited experience such as yourself beliefs 

  I have limited experience?  And you would know that because why... I'll tell you what, when you can tear down your F4 motor, figure out where the tolerance stacking is , correct it, put the motor back together, and degree the cams , then you can comment on my experience..  But until then, Don't pretend to know how I think, since you base your answers on assumption ( shaft endplay is a perfect example....you guess the endplay, where as I measured it.), I on the other hand I don't assume a thing.  I pay attn to detail.  That's the difference between you and I.

 You then tell me that I may have no rattle now, but only until the life expectancy runs out.  Which is when?  Who thinks this shite up????

  You then comment about If you are a person who has decided on a OEM tensioner then forget about that aftermarket exhaust system, forget about jetting and remapping the fuel management, forget about changing sprocket sizes because your just a stock kind of person who accepts what things are and not what they can be. 

That's funny because I have a full Hindle exhaust, with a PC3, and the bike works just fine. How  does having the OEM CCTL affect this?  My  bike doesn't bog down, or hesitate.  Your bike on the other hand does bog and hesitate when you decided to use STOCK JETTING after installing a pipe, and air filter. Which you decided on after talking to your mechanic.......  So let me get this straight.......you can use stock parts, but for everyone else thats just a acceptance of how things are....not what they can be..........

What's even funnier is how you try to make it seem like you talked to multiple mechanic's about the problem, when we both know it was only one....

BTW  the J23 in your pic, did you see where the ends of the C-clip were.  Do you see how the one end is bent up?  That's not suppost to be like that.      Details Khan........Details.......

http://www.bossturbo.com/cbr/howto/cct/comparison.jpg

Jeff

 

 

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My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

Khan

-------------------P.S-------------------

Nice job on your post : "HOW THE OEM CCTL WORKS " See If you actually did know how it worked , you could have done the same thing. I just let you do the hard work...lol Why don’t you do one on rejetting carbs.-Or lack there of..I’m sure people would find that one very helpful...... I will once I have all my facts right, but the difference will be that the method I want to come up with is not spending $100-$160 on a jet kit but to modify the stock fuel management system to better suit an aftermarket exhaust system with advanced airflow. I’m half way there!

So as we can all see there are 7 MOVING parts that make up an OEM tensioner and we all know this for a fact that the cam chain moves, vibrates and produces forces that travel down to the shaft then into the housing moving everything from spring to clip. So why just stop at the tip and say that the rattle comes from there with no proof in terms of ware and tare to that area. Jeff all evidence points to the OEM CCTL unit as a whole being a bad design not a particular section. Again...out of the 7 moving parts, which one shows signs of wear? ...actually Jeff, its 6 moving parts, the main housing that is bolted onto the engine does not move, my mistake. I’ve taken the CCTL apart, the pics are right there......the pics looks of a VERY NEW part. I would like to post some images of the 2 tensioners that i currently have. One is a very old model used for over 40ks, the other is the newer j23. The J23 that i installed and removed only after 2 DAYS of riding showed the same marking around the shaft as it did when i removed it after 3 weeks of everyday riding. This proves that the age of the tensioner cannot be determined by the markings, since that’s the case, the condition of the cam chain can be diagnosed by the rattle when a NEW tensioner makes it. once there is a lot of play, movement and stretch in an old chain, the OEM tentioner cannot, does not and will not provide the extra tension that’s required and this is proven by the markings and RATTLE that comes from a NEW J23 after 2 days of riding. This is mainly due to the the spring and excessive play it the OEM cct. The spring can only do it’s job to certain specification after that its rattle and damage all the way. Damage to the cctl and not the chain as much. The only thing that has marks on it, is the shaft, but the 600rr also has them, and it doesn’t rattle...Even a small amount of negative movement by the chain can mark the tensioner shaft but excessive movement creates the rattle .So again, my question is, if both have the same marks, but the 600rr doesn’t rattle, how is this the cause of the rattle in the F4i? The answer to that is looking at you in the face. Its the condition of the chain and engine. Isn’t your 600rr Newer then the F4i with less milage on it and I’m sure both have stock chains that havent been replaced. The 600rr has a chain in better condition then the F4i and thats the reason why the rr doesn’t make the cctl rattle as much.. Again, another question that will go unanswered..... and again, answered as usual with proof.

Khan

Jeff

Khan

---

Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

droid_khan:

Khan

-------------------P.S-------------------

Nice job on your post : "HOW THE OEM CCTL WORKS " See If you actually did know how it worked , you could have done the same thing. I just let you do the hard work...lol Why don’t you do one on rejetting carbs.-Or lack there of..I’m sure people would find that one very helpful...... I will once I have all my facts right, but the difference will be that the method I want to come up with is not spending $100-$160 on a jet kit but to modify the stock fuel management system to better suit an aftermarket exhaust system with advanced airflow. I’m half way there!

So as we can all see there are 7 MOVING parts that make up an OEM tensioner and we all know this for a fact that the cam chain moves, vibrates and produces forces that travel down to the shaft then into the housing moving everything from spring to clip. So why just stop at the tip and say that the rattle comes from there with no proof in terms of ware and tare to that area. Jeff all evidence points to the OEM CCTL unit as a whole being a bad design not a particular section. Again...out of the 7 moving parts, which one shows signs of wear? ...actually Jeff, its 6 moving parts, the main housing that is bolted onto the engine does not move, my mistake. I’ve taken the CCTL apart, the pics are right there......the pics looks of a VERY NEW part. I would like to post some images of the 2 tensioners that i currently have. One is a very old model used for over 40ks, the other is the newer j23. The J23 that i installed and removed only after 2 DAYS of riding showed the same marking around the shaft as it did when i removed it after 3 weeks of everyday riding. This proves that the age of the tensioner cannot be determined by the markings, since that’s the case, the condition of the cam chain can be diagnosed by the rattle when a NEW tensioner makes it. once there is a lot of play, movement and stretch in an old chain, the OEM tentioner cannot, does not and will not provide the extra tension that’s required and this is proven by the markings and RATTLE that comes from a NEW J23 after 2 days of riding. This is mainly due to the the spring and excessive play it the OEM cct. The spring can only do it’s job to certain specification after that its rattle and damage all the way. Damage to the cctl and not the chain as much. The only thing that has marks on it, is the shaft, but the 600rr also has them, and it doesn’t rattle...Even a small amount of negative movement by the chain can mark the tensioner shaft but excessive movement creates the rattle .So again, my question is, if both have the same marks, but the 600rr doesn’t rattle, how is this the cause of the rattle in the F4i? The answer to that is looking at you in the face. Its the condition of the chain and engine. Isn’t your 600rr Newer then the F4i with less milage on it and I’m sure both have stock chains that havent been replaced. The 600rr has a chain in better condition then the F4i and thats the reason why the rr doesn’t make the cctl rattle as much.. Again, another question that will go unanswered..... and again, answered as usual with proof.  SO NOW IT's THE CHAIN THAT'S AT FAULT ......WTF?    Whatever Khan.   I love it how the story you write about keeps changing....  DAY TO DAY.....

Jeff

Khan

Jeff

Khan

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

My stories are not changing Jeff, I've been painting the full picture. Everything I've said relates to each other in everyway. With the images that im about to post, my explainations will be clear. The images are of a new cctl used for 1000ks only and the bike has an old chain never replaced, it has 60000ks on the clock.

---

Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

---

Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

i still dont understand whats the correct way to replace the cctl. in my manual is say to remove the cct bolt and sealing washer. then turn the tensioner shaft fully in (clockwise) and secure it using the stopper tool to prevent damaging the cam chain.

is that the correct way? where can i get this stopper tool?

or i can just unbolt the two bolts hold the cctl and install the new one then install the two bolts holding the cctl?

where is the best place to get a oem cctl?

 

thanks

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www.JSJBROTHERS.com

   The Honda tool is very expensive. ($110 CAN)It's different than the stopper tool that comes with the new CCTL  The new CCTL will come with a stopper tool. in the end.  There's no point in trying to use this stopper(in the new one)because it's so hard to get in there.  if you can get your hand in there, great. but it's very tight.  You have to take out the bolt/washer in order to get the stopper in the end.  Then,  I usually take out the bottom bolt first, then the top one.  As you start to take the top one out, the CCTL will start to move out(away)from the cyl head.  This is because the CCTL is taking up the slack between the chain guide, and the CCTL housing.  You're not going to damage the chain by doing this.  If you do take the stopper tool out of the new CCTL, ( to use on the old CCTL)you'll have to wind the shaft back in(on the new one) with the stopper tool again before you install it.  Once the new one is bolted up, pull the stopper tool out.  Then don't forget to put the bolt/washer back in the end of the new CCTL.

Jeff

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My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

...Once you remove the bottom bolt use a small flat head screw driver, place the tip where the bolt use to be (not in the hole but on the side against the body of cct)  and wedge the back of it against the frame or anyhting else that the back of the screwdriver will reatch. The ideas is to hold the tensioner in place while you open the top bolt.

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Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe