CBRWorld.net

I have this noise on my 2005 F4i..not even 2800 miles on it...I have a extended warranty through 2010..is this something that may be covered by it?

If I make a service call do I just say my CCT is rattling?



Goose

I would say get as much as you can from the warranty. DOn't tell them its the tensioner, get them to find the problem and fix it you will have a better chance that way to get them to do it.

Goodluck

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Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

UPDATE!!!

Received the APE manual tensioner. Installed it with success. NO MORE RATTLE!!! on the first test ride i was jumping with joy on the seat and i pulled a few good wheelies too.

FULL PROOF INSTRUCTION FOR INSTALLING an APE manual tensioner.

No need to count turns, No need to feel or open the cam cover. Forget about modding an OEM it doesn't work for all bikes. Get a manual tensioner and follow this guide.

 

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1. Remove the bolt from the back of the OEM tensioner

 

2. Fine your stopper tool or make one by following the instruction in the service manual (can be downloaded from the net)

 

3. Place the stopper tool at the back of cctl and lock the shaft. This can easily be done, just have to push it in and turn a little and it will grab on! This must be done to lock the tensioner shaft in the natural oporation position (the right lenght for your chain).

 

4. Now you can remove the tensioner easily by opening the two bolts.

 

5. Since you have the stopper tool in place measure the lenght of the shaft from the tip to base where the gasket sits. This will be the lenght that you need to set the manual tensioner to. This is the key to this fullproof guide, it makes sure that the tension is JUST RIGHT FOR YOUR BIKE.

6. Before you install the APE into the bike the middle locking nut need to be in the right position and not just in the middle. The way to do this is to bring the shaft to the same position as the OEM, the measurement that you took down on step 5.

7. Once the shaft of the APE is the same lenght as the OEM (the natural operating position) turn the middle nut and lock it in LIGHTLY (applying some loctite to the nut will help it to stay in place so that when you back out the shaft for installation the middle nut will stay in the RIGHT POSITION and will not turn when you are bolting in the tensioner , this is VERY IMPORTANT)

8: Now that the middle nut is in the right spot, it is time to back out the shaft by turning the end bolt all the way back and install the tensioner.

9: Once the tensioner is installed, turn the end bolt in and you will not need to worry about counting turns, feel, using your hand or a tool since you know once the middle nut reaches the back of the tensioner you will not be able to tighten any furture, it will be in the right SAFE position.

10. Start the bike up let it warm up. Listen, hear for a bit. Tweak if necessary. If you need to tighten or loosen more 1/8 of a full turn is THE MOST you can take beyond the sweet spot. Any more and damage will occur. In most cases if the middle nut was set right you should not need tweaking.

11. Shut the bike down, you will need TWO 16mm open ends for this step. Hold the end bolt in place with one wrench and loosen the middle nut (or locking nut) with the other. Apply some more loctite and lock the nut back in, FIRMLY THIS TIME.

Thats it!

Khan

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Love the bike with no rattle

CBR F4
K&N filter
Modded Carbs (no jetting)
APE Tensioner
Yoshi TRS Race pipe

I gave it another shot and finally got it to work.  I replaced my original with an OEM CCT (2 dots) that had the dowel spread as described elsewhere.  Didn't have too much time to ride it after but after warmup, I did get it to the usual 5K rpm range and no rattle.  Hope it stays that way.

For the lower bolt, I laid on my back and looked up at the CCT from below and used the hole in the frame (as described) for the socket wrench.

The hardest part was putting the bolt back into the outer hole once it was reinstalled.  Since the hole for this is about 2" further to the back of the bike (i.e. the length of the CCT itself), I couldn't get the angle I needed with any of my tools.  I don't know how many times I dropped that bolt and had to fish it out before I finally put a nice piece of cardboard to catch it.  I finally got it started into the threads by holding the head with a needle nose pliers and turning it from underneath with my hand. 

One thing's for sure, if it ever starts rattling again, I'm gonna just get some earplugs :)

Just finished mine.  I had to remove the airbox, fuel tank, and tons of fittings.  It took me 8 hours from start to finish.  Jesus H. Christ!  

okay i've been having issues with my tensioner for over a year and just never did anything about it.   well i also got hit by a car and it was down for 9 months but i've repaired the bike now and have been wanting to get this fixed(actually just got the ape manual) but one day i was out riding my bike for a few hours took it home and two days later it ran like total crap!    i've seen where it was posted about putting it to TDC before installing and i'm concerned i've let it go too long before fixing....   the bike at idle makes no noise but between 4k-5k rpm it goes crazy also when i drive(or attempt to now) it runs like ass! will changing this fix it?    i'm don't hear any other noises as far as i know but i don't wanna mess anything up by not fixing all the problems at once.

thank you for any help

Great write up. I am actually needing to replace this myself. However. I am not sure how long the previous owner let this happen after he heard it.

I just had one question. When you start it up and hold the tensioner bolt with your hand. do you plug that socket at top back in when starting it? Also my bike sometimes doesn't do it which is a drag but hoping this will solve it! Still afraid of over tightening though and causing premature clutch wear!

thanks again
any input would be much appreciated

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01 CBR F4i
PC3 Full Hindle exhaust

Thanks for the great tutorial Jdub916.  After almost 21000 miles on my F4i, my CCT finally got loud enough that I couldn't stand it any more.  It had been rattling some since about 14000 miles, but really got pretty loud just this past weekend.  I had ordered a new J24 CCT and put it away for when I needed it earlier in the year.  I installed it and all is quiet again.  Your tutorial led me right through it without a hitch.  Took me less than 3 hours, including the trip to 2 stores for the 1/4 inch drive extension, allen socket, swivel, and since I couldn't find a 5mm allen socket that was 1/4 in drive, I had to make my own by cutting a piece off a 5mm allen key and putting it in a 5mm 1/4 in drive socket.  Actually, I thought replacement was fairly easy to do.  Only difficult part was getting that little bolt and washer started that plugs the end of the CCT.  Kind of cramped and I dropped the bolt a couple of times, but finally succeeded.  Thanks again for a great tutorial and especially the list of proper tools needed to do the job easily.

Folks, don't procrastinate.  If it rattles, change it.  It's not the dreaded job some make it out to be.  I did mine with the bike on the side stand because it's easier to get to with the bike leaning over to the left and I did it "without turning the engine to top dead center".  Just make sure the tranny is in neutral and take the key out so the engine can't get accidentally cranked.  Just remove the right fairing, move the gas tank about 2 inches to the left, and dig in.  It's really that simple with the right tools.

I chose to replace with a stock CCT.  The old one can be repaired with a new roll pin and a punch, which I will do and then I'll put it away for when/if it's needed again.

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'05 CBR600F4i
PCIII USB
-1 Front +2 Rear/Speedohealer
Various screens according to my mood
Hindle Hi Mount slip on oval supersport core
K & N air filter
Matris M3 Damper
Vortex Rearsets
BRG Racing 1/5 turn throttle
Pit-Eck undertail and hugger