This is a step-by-step tutorial to check the valve clearances on a 600RR (but much of it is applicable to most CBRs, please consult your service manual for the differences with your bike). It is recommended that valves be checked every 16k miles and adjusted if the valves are out of spec.
Things you'll need:
- standard hand tools
- feeler gauges
[Click on any pic to view a higher-resolution version]
First remove all fairings such that you have access to the engine. In this case, this required the removal of the lower and middle side fairings, upper (not pictured), air duct covers, and tank cover. Though not pictured here, I also disconnected the radiator from its mounting points (all hoses were still connected) to allow for some maneuverability later.
Remove the forward-most tank bolts. Pivot the tank back and suspend the tank. Here a small bungee cord is used to suspend the tank.
Remove ECM (Engine Control Module).
Disconnect the black 2P PAIR solenoid valve connector and starter switch connector(A), IAT sensor connector (B), and the air cleaner cover. Note: the starter switch connector here is shown as red because I use an RC-51 starter switch with my quick turn throttle.
Disconnect secondary air injector connectors and remove secondary air injectors.
Remove air filter and upper air cleaner housing.
Remove velocity stacks (C) and disconnect MAP sensor connector (D), vacuum hose to the MAP sensor connector, all hoses connected to the lower air cleaner housing, and lower air cleaner housing.
Remove the heat guard rubber and throttle bodies. After the throttle bodies are removed, then disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle bodies. Note: I have removed the PAIR valve so this pic may look different than your bike. If your bike has the PAIR valve, then remove it now.
Disconnect the ignition coil connectors and remove the ignition coils (E).
Remove the cylinder head cover bolts (circled below), the washers beneath them, and the cylinder head cover. Between the cylinder head cover and the engine casing beneath it is a thick rubber gasket. This gasket should come off with the cylinder head cover as its also seals the ignition coils on the cylinder head cover too.
Remove the timing hole cap and the o-ring beneath it.
Turn the CKP (crankshaft position) sensor rotor (F) such that the "T" mark (G) is aligned with the index mark (H) on the crankcase.
When the CKP is in this position, the index line on the CKP (I in the above pic) will line up with a "notch" inside the crankcase (J). This notch is not visible when looking at the timing hole head-on. We will make use of this notch soon.
This will place timing marks, IN and EX, on the cam sprockets flush with the cylinder head casing surface. The timing marks should be facing outward (as pictured below). If they are facing inward, then turn the CKP 360 degrees (i.e. 1 full turn).
Measure the valve clearances for the #1 (K) and #3 (L) intake valves with a feeler gauge.
Rotate the CKP 180 degrees such that the index line (I) is, as the service manual says, facing "up". This description in the manual is rather ambiguous. So use the "notch" (J) as the reference for the index line. You want the index line to be in line with the "notch" but on the other side of the CKP.
Measure the valve clearances for the #2 (M) and #4 (N) exhaust valves with a feeler gauge.
Rotate the CKP 180 degrees. This will again bring the "T" mark (G) in line with the index mark on the crankcase (H) but the timing marks on the cam sprockets will NOT be in line with the cylinder head casing surface.
Measure the valve clearances for the #2 (O) and #4 (P) intake valves.
Rotate the CKP 180 degrees. This will again bring the index line (I) facing "up".
Measure the valve clearances for the #1 (Q) and #3 (R) exhaust valves.
Here's what my measurements were:
|
cyl |
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
Spec |
|
INtake |
0.009"/0.009" |
0.008"/0.008" |
0.008"/0.008" |
0.008"/0.008" |
0.008 +/- 0.001" |
|
EXhaust |
0.010"/0.011" |
0.011"/0.012" |
0.011"/0.012" |
0.011"/0.011" |
0.011 +/- 0.001" |
All valve clearances were within spec. So no adjustment is needed at this time (this part of the tutorial will have to wait another day 
)
Now put everything back together.
When reinstalling the cylinder head cover, add some silicone sealant to the half-moon shaped openings on the engine casing.
You'll also need to make sure the gaskets for the cylinder head cover are such that UP is indeed up. Torque to 7 ft-lbs.
When re-installing the timing hole cover, add some grease to the threads of the cover. Torque to 13 ft-lbs.
Everything else should install the way it was removed.
Reinstall all pieces and ride 
Acknowledgements: The author would like to thank NateF4 for his valuable input. 
Disclaimer: No small children or domesticated animals were harmed in the making of this tutorial.....though it was contemplated many times.
 badfish'05 600RR Purple/Black |  |