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1).  These are the parts that will be needed to create the delay relay.

      (1) Velleman Kit (MK-111) - $7.99 (Find It Cheaper Online)

      (1) Project Box - $2.29 (optional)

      (2) Strain Relief Bushings - $0.69 (optional)

      Asst Colored Wire - Laying Around

2).  This is what is contained in the MK-111 Kit

      1 - Printed PC Board (1)

      3 - 1K Resistors (2)

      2 - 1N4148 Diodes (3)

      1 - 1N4007 Diode (4)

      1 - 1M Pause Trimpotentiometer (NOT USED) (5)

      1 - 47K (50K) Pulse Trimpotentiometer (6)

      1 - 100nF Ceramic Capacitor (7)

      1 - 3mm Red Led (NOT USED) (8)

      1 - 8 pin IC Socket (9)

      1 - 2 Wire Terminal Block (10)

      1 - 3 Wire Terminal Block (11)

      2- 100uf Electrolytic Capacitors (12)

      1 - Miniature Relay (13)

      1 - 555 Timer Chip (14)

3).  These are the instructions that are printed on the back of the package.

      If you need a copy of the printable included instructions, click on the link.

4).  This is a look at the clean PC board(1).  Take a minute to look at the writing printed

      on the board.  This writing helps you to build the delay relay.

5).  Install all three 1K resistors(2).  They will be soldered on the board in R1, R2, and R3. 

      All three resistors are the same and there is no positive or negative.  They can be wired

      either way and work just fine.

6).  Install all three diodes.  The small diodes(3) will be soldered on the board in D1 and D2. 

      The large diode(4) will be soldered on the board in D3.  Diodes do have a positive and

      negative so be sure to wire it correctly.

6a). This is a zoomed in photo of the D1 and D2 diodes.  Notice how the large dark bands

       around the diode match with the large white band on the board?  This is how you verify

       that the cathode is on the correct side.

7).  Install the 50K trimpotentiometer(6).  It will be soldered on the board in RV2 (PULSE) .

       (Note: The white arrow in the middle turns.  This is how you adjust the delay.)

7a). This is a zoomed in photo of the trimpotentiometer.  Notice the writing on the side? 

       Verify that you are using the one with 50K stamped on it.

8).  Install the 100nF ceramic capacitor(7).  It will be soldered on the board in C1.  Ceramic

      capacitors have no positive or negative. This can be wired either way and work fine.

9).  Install the IC socket(9).  It will be soldered on the board in IC1.  This socket will fit either

      way but there is a correct and incorrect way.

9a). This is a zoomed in photo of the IC socket.  Notice the notice on the bottom of the socket

       matched the drawing of the half circle on the board?  This is how you know it has been

       installed correctly.

10). Join the two wire terminals.  The 2 wire terminal(10) should be on the left and the 3 wire

       terminal(11) should be on the right.  The grooves on the side slide into each other and hold

       them together and straight.

11). Install the joined wire terminals.  They will be soldered on the board in SK1 and SK2. 

       The side that the wire will screw into should be facing outside the board.

12). Install both of the 100uf electrolytic capacitors(12).  They will be soldered on the board in C2

       and C3.  This type of capacitor does have a positive and negative so be sure to wire it correctly.

13). This is a zoomed in photo of the electrolytic capacitor.  Here you can see the negative

        indications.  Make sure that this side does not get installed on the (+) of the board.

14). Install the miniature relay(13).  It will be soldered on the board in RY1.

15). Install the 555 timer chip(14).  It will be pressed into the IC socket that you have already

       soldered to the board.  This chip will fit either way but there is a correct and incorrect way.

16). This is a zoomed in photo of the timer chip.  Notice that the little dot is on the lower right? 

        It is located by the notch on the bottom of the IC socket.  This is how you know it has been

        installed correctly.

17). This is how the wiring will look when completed.  Instead of trying to explain how to wire the

        board, I will create a diagram for where the wires go.

18). This is my attempt at a wiring diagram.  Since I am riding a Honda with the winking eye my

       wiring was really simple.  There are two wires going to a single headlight.  I cut them and ran

       them through the box.

19). This is a photo of the completed board.  At this point you can wrap it in electrical tape, put it

        in a Ziploc bag, a balloon or whatever to kinda seal it from the elements.  I chose to place mine

        inside a project box which just made more work.

20). Since it is in a sealed box I had to make a hole for adjusting the delay.

21). I also had to run the wires through the side of the box.  I used strain relief bushings to seal the

       hole and to ensure that the wire doesn’t get pulled from the board.  I also labeled the wires

       because knowing which wire goes where is very important.

22). This is the completed project.  Ready for the install.

As with all how-to projects, I assume no liability.  This is just for information purposes and

this is the way I did it.  I don’t guarantee any of the information to be correct and I will not

be held responsible for anything happening to yourself or your belongings.  Do this at your

own risk.

Pre-made delay relays can be purchased from TripageLED.com.  I am not associated with

TripageLED in ANY way but if you lack the desire or the courage to do this yourself you can contact

them to order this part.  Shipping is included in the prices on the website which saves you like $10. 

Quick email response and fast shipping.  A+