Maintenance / Troubleshooting / Repair

Honda CBR service manuals and other Honda sportbike manuals

abadfish — Fri, 11 Nov 2005 22:54:32 GMT

Right-click and select Save As. If it comes up as something other than a PDF or Zip file, cancel and try again.

Honda Common Service Manual

929 - you can also PM Nate F4 he has a more complete manual

954

954 - you can also PM Nate F4 he has a more complete manual

1000RR

1000RR (alternate site)

1100XX

Need help after installing a new shifter pedal on f2

dodgerfan33 — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 17:05:21 GMT

I laid my bike down going about 15 a while back and it bent my gear shifter inwards and made it hard to shift so I ordered a new one and that came in the mail yesterday. I installed it with a new linkage according to the manual, problem is, that the shifter pedal is almost at the same height as the footpeg where my heel normally rests....I've extended the link rod as far as it while go and still hold, with no sucess...What did I do wrong how can I fix it? Can I get a new rod made, since all it is, is a steel rod threaded on two ends, thats 1/4 inch longer so I can lower it? Please help its my first bike

its a 93 cbr600f2 by the way

99 f4 chugging issues.

Jwind — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 04:54:10 GMT

Recently my 99 cbr F4 has been acting up.

Once the bike reaches operating temps, Every time I engage 1st and get on the throttle, it chugs a bit. Then as soon as I get pass about 4k rpm it stops. Its very violent at times, and has caused the motor to stall once. If I stay on the gas it'll chug and stutter all the way to 4krpm where it'll ride as if nothing had happened. If I let off the throttle, it idles normally. And thats just 1st gear. 2nd gear chugs abit after i engage it from 1st, and is fine after 3k rpm. But if I'm rolling to a stop but have to engage 2nd again, it'll chug almost as bad as 1st gear.

Its completely normal if I'm riding with no stop and go traffic, like on the freeway for example. It has yet to happen in 3rd gear or higher. I'm thinking it could be a carb problem? I've tried adjusting my idle to see if it'll help, but no real changes really. I did have my valves adjusted and had the carbs cleaned, but not jetted about 600 miles ago, if it matters at all.

Anybody have any suggestions before I take it to a shop?

2004 600 RR Shifting Problem

laffinstock — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 23:31:18 GMT

Brought my 04 600rr home from work the other night, parked it in the garage, no issues. Didnt notice anything while riding home or anything.

Next morning the bike was giving me trouble shifting down into first from neutral, however it went in after playing with it for a bit.

The bike will shift, but it doesnt seem like after it shifts the shifting mechanisim returns. Im not super mechanical with bikes, but my guess is a return spring?

Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what might be the cause of this? Clutch feels fine, bike will shift into gears both up and down, just have to fidgit with it a bit to get it to shift.

Really need help here. cbr1000 troubles

pablohoney — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 23:14:53 GMT

I have a 1988 cbr1000f Hurricane, and here is what is going on, I just cleaned the ever-loving crap out of the carbs, replaced the manifolds and all the vacuum tubing, and when I start it up if I give it any throttle it dies. I have to let it warm up with full choke and the take the choke off let it immediately die, then restart it and rev it, after that it will idle ok, kinda all over the place though. It also surges like hell over 6000rpms when I am riding. Also when I have the choke on I hear like a hissing sound from the carbs, and it goes away when I have no choke on. Any ideas where the leak might be? Thanks

Fi warning light...would a chain too tight do this?

volks2cbr — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 04:09:09 GMT

Hey all, quick question...I just did some routine maintenance to the bike...nothing that I haven't done before but after about 60 plus miles the throttle seemd to slip a little between the 3-5k range..then the tach went wildly up and down and the bike stalled out. Happened once more on the freeway, then the bike backfired and since then I have not been able to get it to do it again..it's actually running decent So I have no idea what I did to the bike..perhaps I have the chain too tight...would this cause the above. Next step is to look at the filters because the bike is an 02 with 13500 miles on it..maybe it's just time to replace the air filter and is just a coincidence with the other maintenance? Thanks

95 f3 electrical problems

r0kr — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 00:21:50 GMT

I dont have any brake lights and my rear turn signals only work when i push down the rear brake. Both the turn signal lights on my dash are always on. idk if this is from the same problem or not but my low beams and front turn signals stop working randomly.

I just got it back from the shop. i had to have the head gasket replaced, and when i got it back all this stuff was wrong with it, they had it for 2 and a half months and i just dont wana bother taking it back to them if it is just a simple fix
Thanks for any help

02 F4i Steering Stem Bearings

Madman F4i — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 17:07:39 GMT

Hi, This is my first post in a long time. I've been spending more time on my new toy of M109R. I still ride both but don’t spend much time researching my F4i or reading this site much anymore.

I have 45K miles on my CBR and this year I've started to notice a feeling and sound, in the area of bars and steering stem when stopping which I think is the bearings. Then I come to a final stop it feels like it clicks forward slightly. I'm not sure what else it could be but one friend thought maybe the front rotors could also cause a problem but I’m not convinced that could be it.

If my bearings are bad how hard is this to replace? I do most of my own work on the bike but have never touch steering stem bearings in a bike and I'm concerned about them being pressed in and needing special tools. I think I’ve heard there is ways around using special tools for it.

How much do you think a shop would charge if I decided to have them do it?

Whats the best way to know of the bearings are bad?

I think I’ve rather do the work myself so any tips and import would be greatly appreciated.

01 F4i Error code clearing?

happy_noodle_boy1 — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 02:19:30 GMT

How abouts are you guys clearing your F4i error codes? I bought an OBDII scanner thinking since the bike is above a 96 (its a 01) so it should be OBDII but it isnt, so I had to return it. What device should I buy to read/clear the error codes?

Will this fairing fit on my 09 CBR 125 Rw-9

leonmichael — Thu, 03 Jun 2010 19:32:01 GMT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380238842401&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_483wt_1156

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110541676652&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1154

i know one is 04 and the other 07, but 07 fairings generally fit.. the 04 looks like it will but i don't want to buy it if it wont fit,

Many thanks, Leon

Chain / Sprockets

unforsaken — Thu, 03 Jun 2010 19:16:24 GMT

I have a 530 chain with 14,000 miles on it, and I'm considering changing it because I haven't taken that good of care of it over the past two years, and I have rust dust collecting on the swingarm. I figured it needed to be changed in another year anyways. I've decided on a DID 530 chain, but wondered if I didn't change the sprockets if it would wear my new chain prematurely. Any insight on this? Anybody think that would be true? I checked bot sprockets over, and neither seem to be worn too badly, however, I don't want to ruin a new chain either.

CBR F3 off idle hesitation

floridamike — Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:05:57 GMT

1998 CBR F3. around 15,000 miles. Bone stock except for air filter.

Recently completed a carb clean and rebuild due to slow speed jets being clogged. Slow speed jets were completely removed, blew them out, theyre definitely clean. I also sync'd the carbs. The pilot screws were adjusted to the suggested factory manual's setting of 1.5 out (as a start point). After the carb sync (with the airbox/filter removed) youd quickly give the throttle a blip and RPMs would rise quickly.

I then put the airbox/filter back on to adjust the Pilot screws. Of course, the motor was at operating temp. I immediately noticed the bike was running rich with the airbox on. I couldnt get much of a change in RPMs at all turning the pilot screws. I also noticed youd give the throttle a quick turn and it would fall on its face, too much too soon and it would stall. No, the choke isnt on. Maybe I dont have the ear to adjust the pilot screws, and I just cant tell of a slight idle drop by looking at the factory tach.

If I turn the throttle slowly until about the 2000rpm mark, then open it quick, its fine. Its only that quick fast turn of the throttle off idle where the hesitation is. Even though the idle is a bit lumpy, it still idles good and starts great.

I pulled the #1 plug, looks great.

The filter is a KN.. but has about 1000 miles on it.. its no where near dirty, and no where near soaked in oil..

No modifications on the bike at all (except for that air filter).

Suggestions?
The pilot screw.. Im assuming on this bike it adjusts fuel delivery? Screwing it in makes the mixture leaner?

Im also buying the Fluke rpm80 inductive probe to hook to my Fluke DMM to get a better idea of that very small slight drop in idle when turning those pilot screws.

02 cbrf4i wont turn over

mycbrf4i — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 05:44:59 GMT

Hello everyone, I am new to this site but seems like there is alot of knowledge and I am a fairly new rider who needs some help. I have a 02 F4i that was running just fine, I left for 2 weeks and had my wife start up my bike a few times because it is cold here and wanted to make sure the battery held its charge. It started up just fine for her and 2 days after I got back, it wouldn't start. I checked the voltage on the battery and it was like 10.5 so I hooked up the tender to it until it was about 13.4v. Then I tried to start it again and nothing at all when I press the elec start. It is in N, the start fuse is good, the main fuse is good, and I can hear the start relay switch click, but nothing happens at all. It doesnt try to turn or anything so I am not sure if it is something with the ignition or starter or??
So I am looking for any help that anyone could provide me....thanks!!

Fan always on

CBRF3RIDER97 — Thu, 27 May 2010 21:53:52 GMT

I have a 1997 F3.

Lately I've been having a problem with the battery going dead after I ride it. When I first start it up it runs fine but after I go somewhere, turn it off, do whatever, then come back to the bike, it's dead.
I have to push start it to get going again.

The battery is fine, fairly new and normally doesn't give me any problems. The only thing I have noticed is the fan seems to come on at start up lately. It doesn't kick on when the bike gets hot like normal. It is always on.
Could this be what is draining the battery?
I'm not a big tech guy. Is this something that can be easily fixed or do I need to take it to the shop?
Any light you can shed on this will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

What did I blow-up?

Skibum — Fri, 21 May 2010 22:13:25 GMT

Keep my bike in storage all winter. As soon as the snow melts... end of April, I pull the battery and charge it. Put it back in the bike (not able to charge it in the bike as storage has no power outlet) starts up. Don't have much time so I turn off the bike. Week or two goes by and I try and start but battery is a little low so instead of cranking till it dies I pull the battery and charge again. This time when I put the battery back in it cranks and cranks but will not start. No fuses in fuse block are blown and I get no FI light flashes. Any ideas? Please dont tell me I've fried the ECU $$$.

CBR 900 (1998) stuttering between 5000 - 6000 rpm in higher gears only.

dirtydingo — Thu, 20 May 2010 01:13:21 GMT

Hey, hope someone can help. My 1998 CBR 900RR (stock) has a stutter between 5000 and 6000 rpm's and only in the higher gears (5th, 6th) under load. Everything seems fine at idle and in the lower gears. I can push through the stutter and it's pretty much normal past 6000 rpm or so but it's really jerky getting through that rpm range. I changed the plugs, cleaned the K&N air filter, sprayed a can of carb cleaner into the bike with only a minor improvement to the problem. Any ideas on what the issue might be? I know there are a lot of other posts regarding stuttering problems but none that have the symptoms. Thanks.

1998 cbr f3 bogging down

jacob. — Sat, 15 May 2010 02:26:54 GMT

Hello, I'm new here and am going to look at a bike tomorrow. I spoke with the owner and he said the previous owner had the carbs cleaned and synched and the fuel pump replaced. He said that it starts up and idles alright but when you go to ride it its very slow and bogged down. I know a bit about bikes (owned 1 before, worked on it myself) but I was wondering what I should look for in this bike. I'm not familiar with the cbr's so I was looking for advice for problem areas like this.

Any advice is appreciated,

Thanks,
Jacob.

Cylinder Head / Plug Hole Questions

paulzeee — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:39:48 GMT

01 600 f4i stunt bike

Last week a plug shot out of the head leaving the threads stripped out and unusable. I pulled the head last night and it is as bad as I thought.

What do you guys recommend to repair the plug hole? Helicoil, or threaded steel insert? ( or a time-sert). Any other suggestions?

I would like to go the repair route rather than replace the head completely at this point but I'm open to suggestions.

Second question - The plug size is 10m x 1 correct?

Thanks,

Paul

Oil light on,Red light on, will not start :(

JoeHizzle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 00:29:01 GMT

Help! My bike was dropped and will not start. The oil light blinks and the red malfunction light stays lit. I try starting the bike but it won't turn over. Any ideas?

01 CBR F4i throttle jumpy on first spring ride

cghill — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 23:42:10 GMT

New member here, so hi all. I had some decent weather today, so I decided to take my bike out for a ride. However, I noticed while riding that the throttle was extremely jumpy while I was riding. By jumpy I mean that I would hold the throttle steady, but I the bike would keep cutting RPMs on me randomly ever second or so (not evenly spaced timing). Basically, it felt the same as if I would rev the engine and then quickly dump the throttle and pull it back up. Especially if I was in the 3-5k RPM range - the jumpiness seemed to go away when I got higher RPMs and it seemed to idle just fine as well. Does anyone have any idea what this might be. I don't know if I'm describing the issue very well.

A little background - this is my first bike, and it was my first winter with the bike. I didn't realize that I needed to "winterize" it (which may be causing the problem). When I parked the bike in November of last year, there wasn't much fuel left in the tank - just above the reserve. I took the bike out in January and filled the tank full - but I never added any Stabil to it (I didn't know I needed to at the time. Live and learn...I'll do it next year). ALSO I didn't disconnect the battery, so the battery was dead when I took the bike out in January. However, I purchased a charger, and charged the battery to full today before I took it back out.

I think its important to mention that I when I took the bike out in January, I rode it for about 10-15 minutes, and then went to fill up with gas. Apparently that wasn't enough to charge the battery for another start, so I jumped it again and then drove it home (~1 mile away). That short drive home was the FIRST time that I felt the jumpiness (not during the 10-15 minute ride), but my friend who escorted me on the ride (due to the dead battery) and jumped me at the gas station figured it was because the battery had no power and everything was running purely off of the alternator, thus the power was fluctuating and causing the jumpiness. I think thats an unlikely diagnosis now since the battery was charged to full before I took it out today.

Anyway, sorry for the wall of text here, but I want to give as much info as possible about the problem. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?

2003 cbr 600rr NO POWER TO BIKE!!! PLEASE HELP!!!

jetman666 — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 20:57:55 GMT

my 03 cbr started acting up recently. at first i would turn the key on and get no power to the instrument panel but i could push-start the bike and it would run fine.

now i get no power to the bike at all and i can't push-start it anymore.

the battery is perfect. all the fuses are good (unless there's a fuse i can't find). sometimes when the key is off there seems to be a slight bit of power going to the cluster (you can see some of the lcd panel "lighting" up... like if you were to push against the screen of a handheld tiger electronics game) but it immediately goes away if i turn the key to the "on" position...

i know that everything has to go through the instrument panel so i'm wondering if the panel itself has gone bad. i can't find any shorts on the bike and everything else seems to be good...

please help!

gravity fed 600f3

Bosskie — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 15:43:09 GMT

Last week I was working overtime and couldn't tend to my cbr600f3 which didn't start. Ended up taking it to the shop where they found a faulty fuel pump. They told me that it can be gravity fed and handed me the bill. Havnt got a chance to ride it yet but I did order a new pump just in case. Now I know alittle about mechanics trade but didn't honda put the fuel pump there for a reason? Without a fuel pump will I risk the fact I'll be running lean in high RPM and have a chance of burning a valve?

Is this normal for a COLD Start?

mr93t — Sat, 06 Feb 2010 05:46:38 GMT

Bike: 1996 F3 with 14,000mi

Everytime I start my bike on a cold start, with choke 100% on, it starts right up, but the RPMS never rise. I've seen on YouTube video carb'd bikes starting up and idling at around 3000, and eventually working its way down - until the rider turns choke off completely.

Its really annoying, because sometimes when it just floats around 1200, and craps out. and I have to re-starts.

Also.. when the engine is hot, I can never start up the bike without giving it some throttle (even if I put 1/2 choke and no throttle, it won't start up...i MUST give it a blip for it start up).

Carbs area clean, plugs are new (CR9Eh-9), air filter is new (stock honda), oil is fresh, and bike is stock.

When I removed the carbs last season to clean them, I had to undo the throttle cable, which had some but/bolt type connectors on them... is possible that I may have to re-adjust that?

If i crank the Idle Adjust, it always works...but again, i shouldn't have to crank it to high idle to start, and reduce it again after it starts.

Otherwise it runs fine, idles good, and sounds nice. I think it might be running rich though... my friends riding behind me say it smells like fuel (although they are all on new Fi bikes).

Any ideas on where I can start?

*oh..its got a hindle pipe if that really changes anything.

97 F3 Rectifier

Bosskie — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 02:46:48 GMT

This has happened numeral time in the past. Bike shuts down on freeway after about 45 minutes riding. Doesn't happen all the time but mainly when I have a head wind. After brainstorming with my buddy and alittle R&D seems as though the rectifier is overheating and thus cutting off my electrical supply.
Ill start by applying a thermal compuond to see if this will help the problem. Pictures to come.

If anyone else has had this problem please let me know so I can keep riding.

question about winterizing my f4i and adding oil in cylinders for winter

rosscopeeko — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:24:05 GMT

I need a little help on winterizing my new to me f4ii. This is my first street bike other than my little cbr125, so the inline four is new to me. I read my manual for the bike, an 06 with 3200 miles on it, and it said to pull the plugs and drop a little oil down the cylinders for winter. My manual is very vague. I pulled off both left and right fairings as the manual directed in order to get to the plugs, bug it seems a little tough. Does anyone actually add oil to there cylinders over winter, or is this overkill. My next question, what is the easiest way to get to the plugs on an f4i? Take the tank off? I should say that i'm pretty anal when it comes to maintenance on machines. I want this bike to last.