CBRWorld.net

1) This is the Factory Pro Shift Kit (detent arm and spring without the ‘star’)

- If you are careful, you can save the gasket for another time!

 2) Clutch Housing, RH side Crankcase

- I used a hammer and tapped around the housing till it came loose
- There was a tear in the original gasket but it was minor so I used ‘Permatex’ on installation  and re-used the original gasket. So far, no leaks!

3) Clutch Housing Removed

-  You can see the original gasket is still intact
-  Be careful not to loose the 2 dowel pins
-  Remove the clutch lifter bolts, plate & springs

4) Clutch Assembly Removal pt1 (Lifter plate, bolts & spring)

-  If you are not changing the clutch/friction plates, the Clymer manual suggests you use 1 spring & bolt with a flat washer to hold the assy in place

5) Clutch Assembly Removal pt2  (Lock nut)

-  Un-stake the lock nut with a chisel or equivalent
-  As with some other forum members, I put the bike in gear and stepped on the rear brake as I un-torqued the lock nut. I did have an impact wrench just incase I needed it
-  The lock washer has to be re-installed with the same side facing outside as removed. The word ‘outside’ is marked on 1 side
-  The whole assy should pull out quite easily, if not giggle it a little while pulling

6) Clutch Basket Removal

-  Insert 5mm drill bit or pin to align the primary driven gears
-  Pull out the clutch basket but be careful not to damage the housing gasket if it is still there

7) Clutch Basket Removed

-  I used a piece of plastic to cover the ‘holes’ to the oil sump incase I dropped anything in, which I didn’t….

8) Shift Linkage & Detent Arm Removal Removal

-  First disconnect the shifter from the shift-shaft and then pull the linkage out
-  Be careful when removing the detent arm assy. Loosen the bolt just enough to use a screwdriver to pry the arm out of the ‘star’ so that there is no spring tension acting against it (similar to next pic)
-  DO not lose the washer which is behind the arm!<!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]-->   <!--[if !supportLists]--><!--[endif]-->

*I didn’t actually remove the linkage, I just pulled it out enough to access the detent arm

9) Shift Kit Installation pt1

-  This is the reverse of the removal
-  Secure the bolt just enough to move the arm back onto the ‘star’

10) Shift Kit Installation pt2

-  This can be tricky so be patient and remember to place the arm at the same place on the ‘star’ as you removed it (the ‘star’ can rotate several deg in each direction)
-  Once you’ve tightened the bolt (remember the washer!), replace the shift linakge & reconnect the shifter
-  Shift through all the gears to ensure proper operation (you might have to play with the clutch shaft to get into the gears)
11) Re-install the clutch basket, clutch assy & lifter plate assy reverse to their removal

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I didn’t go into much detail as I do expect anyone working on their bikes to have the relevant workshop manual which does show a lot of detailed pics. I just highlighted the ‘important’ aspects and the shift kit installation itself. However, if you are attempting this mod without a manual, email me and I’ll try to give you a detailed step-by-step explanation.

Hope this helps someone! 

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This world is not my home.............I'm just passing thru on my F2..........