CBRWorld.net

    To all who hate the nasty "Rattle" from your F4i.   Here's the mod that will fix it for good.  This mod is quite easy, and it works.  I started doing this mod in 02, and have done this mod on many bikes all with great success!

   Step 1- Get a hammer, a punch (the punch must have a  blunt end.  You want to spread the dowel, not push it out), and a flat surface(metal).

   Step 2- Obviously, use the punch to spread the dowel, repeating on other side. I usually hit the punch once, then switch to the other side.

   Step 3- The pic is not very good, but it shows before and after.  The one on top has been modified.

   Taking the CCTL apart, and winding the spring up tighter, is not necessary.  All you are doing is putting more pressure on the tip to stop it from rattling.  I've done this mod also, as well as machine a new piece that holds the shaft in place.  You can see it in the last pic.  The shaft is rotating also.  When you Take out your CCTL, you'll see a mark on the shaft.  This is where the shaft was when it was in service.

    In this section there's a tutorial on replacing the CCTL.  LOOK at the pic where the CCTL is in his hand.  Now look on the shaft, that line half way up is where the shaft was when it was installed.  Obviously, when the CCTL was removed, and when doing so, will allow the shaft to extend.  If you wipe off the oil, and tilt it in the light, you'll see shiny marks on the shaft in that same spot.  This is from the shaft movement, due to engine harmonics. 

   Jeff

 

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

   Here is the pic I'm talking about

   If you look at the shaft (about half way down) you can see the line.   If you were to take the bolt out and wind the shaft "in" (as if you're going to install it) until the line is just about inside the housing....This is where the shaft is, when it's in use inside the engine.  that line is from the shaft  moving back and forth from the engine harmonics.  The harmonics are transfered from the chain to the guide, to the CCTL.  The hardened tip ...9 out of 10 times is loose, causing the tip to vibrate, causing the "Rattle".( yes even when NEW)  Now, Yes the shaft is moving back and forth, but it only moves by how much clearance that shaft has inside..  That shaft has 2 parts to it.  The outer part is what you see,  and what you can't see is the inner screw, which  you're winding  up in the end of the CCTL.  The shaft cannot back off, which was how it was designed.  The only way to move the shaft is by inserting a screwdriver in the end, and turning it.   Your chain is not going to skip a tooth, as many people are lead to believe.   Your motor IS NOT going to explode!

     I've always done this mod with the J23 CCTL.  Now, some people have taken apart the CCTL and wound the spring even tighter.......I  would not recommend this, simply because 1st - the J23 doesn't need this mod.  2nd- I've taken apart several CCTL, and it's a pain trying to count the # of turns were on the spring before...... Buy the J23, then take apart your old one and try to count the # of turns..  yes I'm sure some people have wound the spring tighter, and worked, but the modification shown above is far easier, takes less than 5 mins, no other adjustments are needed after and it works.   (without winding the spring ).  Post your results when completed

   Jeff

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

i've done this to a brand spankin new j23...it came from the factory with play in the tip! i was like WTH?!?!?!?

i know some folks on other boards who do the tip mod and say it still rattles...the next loose piece would be, as jeff said, the play in the shaft...but they still mistaken this for the cam chain slapping around...and end up throwing a bunch of turns into the spring or using a longer bolt at the very rear of the cctl to make it into a manual cctl. again, what happens here is that the extra tension against the cam chain is now what's preventing the shaft from vibrating...yes the noise is gone...but now you have extra tension on the cam chain...

but no one would listen...so...WHATEVER! it's just noise...

---

Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

   You mean there's actually people who have put a longer bolt in the end of the stock CCTL?   WTF?  ( I'm shaking my head in disbelief right now.......)  (It's kind of like the people who think that when their car is not running right....by holding your foot on the gas pedal, and rev'ing the $h1T out of it, will fix the problem....) 

   I've always done the mod to the J23.  I'm not sure if the CCTL that still rattle after the mod, are the older versions or not.  Every J23 CCTL that I've done the mod to, had a loose tip.  I really don't like the spring mod, only because you really don't know how much tension is now on the Cam Chain.( which is why I will never use the APE tensioner, never mind all the BS about cam timing, and your chain having slack....BLAH, BLAH , BLAH...Whatever....If I had known that APE was going to have story time, I would have brought my pillow, and blanket)

   Jeff

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

hahahaha...

i'm not exactly sure how the bolt thing works...but you know how if you put in a driver to the rear of the cctl, one way retracts it...counter it and it actually pushes the tip out. nate told me about this and i tried it with my POS cctl. i think this is where those guys are getting it from. but like you said, now they're using tension to get rid of the noise rather than the noise itself.

so...in conclusion...for those who will listen...good...the others...not my bike getting beat up so it's all good!

it's about time you posted this up!!!!!!!!!!

---

Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

Yeah I know......I've been busy...LOL.   Do you still have the stock cctl?

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

yea i think so...but am not sure.

 

---

Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

I hammered that pin but tightened the spring too. Engine is so quiet now that it is scarying me :-) What are bad things that could come as result from (over)thightened spring?
I have a photo, if someone's interested what is inside of CCTL

---

The machine spirit is with me!

i wouldn't worry about it unless you put like more than 4 or 5 windds into the spring...even then i don't think that much more tension is added to the pin...unlike the APE.

what could happen is that the chain is too tight and melts the chain guides...and you get plastic shavings melted and non-melted floating around and clogging things up.

 

---

Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

    The stock CCTL has 8 winds on the spring from the factory.  ( If I remember correctly)

   Jeff

---

My bike-2002 F4i-With OEM CCT......And no rattle
"Life would be boring if everyone was perfect"

I feel like this is a stupid question, but here goes anyway.

I've replaced my CCTL because it went bad. I now am facing a situation of needing to take off the CCTL, a still good one, for some repair/servicing work. I have the service manual and it shows how to make a stopper tool. Has anyone had to do this? Can you explain it for me? Do you just insert the tool, or do you have to turn it too?

Also, if I take out the CCTL in this manner can I do the mod you're talking about if the tip is loose?

abadfish has my stopper tool...basically it's that piece of flat metal that comes with a new cctl that you have to pull out to extend the tip once the cctl is bolted on.

it's T-shaped and the bottom of the t is about the width of an eyeglass screwdriver, or a bit wider. you don't need it to remove the cctl but you will need it to install it.

you'll need to turn it clockwise to retract it.

i would just bolt it back on, then put a small driver in there, turn it so the tip retracts, then pull out the driver so it extends and stops when it contacts the chain.

---

Mawfaki # 0.5
"Let the ignorance die with the ignorant" - Tahoe SC

well i tried this one my stock CCT (it had one blue dot, so its an older one) and i have to say, it didnt work. i spread the dowel so that the tip wasnt moving anymore, but the bike still makes the noise at about 5500-6000 rpm. looks like i might just have to buy a new OEM one :(

Well yeah....it'd probably help to have the most "updated" version of the CCTL before you do the mod & a new one wouldn't hurt either

I already did the mod to a brand new one...just waiting for it to warm up so I can swap it in

---

2001 F4i -- SOLD
Red/Black

Well, I just picked up a 2001 F4i and around 4500-6000 RPM the CCT was rattling making all kinds of noise, but only at that RPM range. I was going to buy a APE Manual CCT or try another OEM, but decided to try this mod. on the current OEM CCT that was causing the rattle....because I didn't want to spend $50 bucks.

OUTCOME ----  AWESOME..........I pulled the CCT out and did the mod and ended up winding the spring 10 times (someone said 8 was factory...?), but the CCT noise is 90-95% gone.

One side note to anyone who is going to do this......it is a PAIN to get the bolts out, but was is even more of a pain is trying to get the OEM CCT bolted back up without the "special tool". I ended up having to take a very small screwdriver and cutting the handle down and than after I turned the tensioner all the way in use electrical tape to hold it in place. Once it was bolted in I just tore the tape of the tensioner.....

---

00' CBR 929RR (Yellow/Black)